Taking care of stick insects, looking after stick insects | Small-Life Supplies

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Stick insect expert Professor Phasmid answers 4 of your questions
every week

Next questions to be answered on
Tuesday 21st July 2026

Our first Indian stick insect egg hatched today. Not the smoothest though as been walking around with her egg hanging off back leg. Should I do anything to help? Congratulations on your first stick insect baby! Indian stick insects (Carausius morosus) usually manage to free themselves completely from their egg, but sometimes the empty eggshell remains attached to a leg, as you have observed. In these situations, it's really important that you do nothing. She will discard this eggshell when she is ready, this may be within days or at her first skin-change. If you try to rush things and remove the eggshell yourself, you are very likely to damage her and deform her leg. Or, even worse, cause her to panic and throw her whole leg off! So it's best to be patient and let her deal with it in her own time. I love your naturalistic background for the ELC stick insect enclosure. Can this be retro fitted? What I mean is can you guys fit it to one of your used ELC cages that you sometimes have for sale? I need another ELC stick insect enclosure for my expanding collection, I hope to buy one of your used ones, but if I'm not quick enough I'll get another new one. Yes, the Dappled Glade Background can be fitted to any ELC cage which has a clear back. So if you buy a discounted used ELC cage from Small-Life Supplies and want this naturalistic background, just add Dappled Glade Background to the order and ask for it to be fitted (this fitting service is free). Most people who purchase the Dappled Glade Background also choose the green ELC Liners to enhance the natural look. Looking to buy some Indian stick insects, I'm a teacher looking for simple class pets. I can get food easily enough, my friend has a privet hedge and there are loads of brambles around here including in the school grounds. Indian stick insects make great class pets because they are low maintenance (only needing the fresh food replenishing once a week), popular with the children, odourless, and of course safe and harmless. Our Indian stick insects (Carausius morosus) no longer eat privet and so it's good that you have bramble growing in the school grounds. We feed our Indian stick insects on bramble leaves all year round and also hazel leaves and rose leaves (when these are available in the summer months). Suggested school topic ideas for Indian stick insects are in the best-selling book "Keeping Stick Insects" by Dorothy Floyd.
The one-stop guide on how to care for stick insects successfully! buy this book from us here OR 24/7 from our numonday on-line shop buy book on-line here	10,000 copies sold signed copies on request

We're looking forward to receiving four adult Indian stick insects and the ELC cage bundle. We know to mist the bramble leaves in the evening, and to avoid misting the stick insects directly. But what happens if a stick insect is on a leaf? I presume it doesn't want a shower! Indian stick insects (Carausius morosus) spend most of their time on the white sides of the ELC cage. This is because the holes in these white sides are full of specially made holes which are just the right size for the stick insects to hook their foot claws around, so they can get a good foothold and rest comfortably. This means that you can easily spray the bramble (blackberry) leaves with cold tap water, without getting the stick insects wet. However on the odd occasion, if there is a stick insect resting on a leaf, just hold the sprayer nearer to the leaves and carefully spray the leaves around the stick insect so that you don't get the actual stick insect wet. It grinds my gears when people talk about the body length of their stick insect instead of the total length, I guess that could explain why people are duped into getting enclosures that are way too small, sometimes as little as 20cm in height. My Indian stick insects are 11cm long and are very happy in the ELC cage, which has a height of 51cm. Yes, it is very important that stick insects are not condemned to live in cramped enclosures. The ELC cage is a purpose designed stick insect enclosure that is 51cm high, making it ideal housing for Indian stick insects (Carausius morosus), Pink Winged stick insects (Sipyloidea sipylus), Thailand stick insects (Baculum thaii), New Guinea stick insects (Eurycantha calcarata) and many other popular types. As well as the height being important, so is the ventilation and the ELC cage has two white ventilated sides that provide the natural cross-flow of air that many stick insects need to thrive. What's the weirdest place you've seen a Pink Winged stick insect glue an egg? Pink Winged stick insects (Sipyloidea sipylus) are unusual because they glue their eggs onto rough surfaces. It's best to leave the eggs where they have been glued so the anchored egg can successfully hatch approximately three months later. The weirdest place I have seen a Pink Winged stick insect glue an egg is on the antenna of a fellow Pink Winged stick insect! My newborn Indian stick insect is roughly 6 hours old. She took some time to free her tail and back legs from her egg. I’ve noticed that she is calmer and slower than the others were at this age - dancing slowly and walking instead of running. She has had a quick explore of her food before resting again. Is it normal for this species to have different personalities? Or is her calmness a problem? Yes, it is normal for Indian stick insects (Carausius morosus) to have different personalities, this is true for the other species of stick insect as well. The stick insect you describe is conserving her energy because she had a birth (hatching) that took longer than usual. Usually, weaker stick insects like this stay near the food source. It's best to give newly hatched stick insects a drink and so remember to mist the bramble leaf later today so she can have a drink. Young Indian stick insects do best in less ventilated surroundings for the first month of their lives and so the HAP container is ideal (the HAP can house up to twelve newly hatched Indian stick insects). URGENT CALL to all insect people to sign this petition to help British insects! Glyphosate, the chemical in weedkillers including Roundup, is found across the UK, with residues often ending up in our food. It devastates wildlife, harms our health, and that's why the European Union has banned one of its most harmful uses: spraying it on crops just before harvest. We need this ban in the UK too and so please join the 65 thousand signatures and sign the petition organised by The Soil Association today. https://act.soilassociation.org/cut-the-chemicals# Yes, the public needs to be aware how harmful glyphosphate is and that in the UK it's usage is widespread and increasing. Lots of scientific research is exposing the harmful effects and so the UK government and Health and Safety Executive have launched a public consultation to review glyphosate use. Glyphosate toxicology expert, Michael Antoniou, Professor Emeritus at King's College London, UK, states "What we’re seeing is an increasing weight of evidence that links this particular herbicide to reproductive problems, including birth defects and developmental disorders, as well as cancers. Industry doesn’t want to stop selling it because it’s making huge sums of money. There is now particular concern over glyphosate being used as a pre-harvest desiccant. This is where the weedkiller is used to intentionally kill and “dry” crops out for earlier harvest. This is the primary cause of glyphosate residues in foods, which are commonly found in oats, barley, wheat, and beans.” I have signed this petition and encourage others to do the same. Why don’t stick insects tolerate the heat? I thought a lot of the breeds that are kept are from places like Australia and Thailand and India? Stick insects have been reared indoors in the UK for over a hundred years and so are used to room temperatures of approx 12 - 14 °C at night and temperatures of 18 - 21°C during the day. So they have acclimatised to those temperatures and that is why they can suffer and even die if exposed to very hot temperatures. That is why it is important to keep them below 25°C. Placing ice blocks on the top of the ELC cage during a heat wave helps reduce the temperature inside the cage by a few degrees. I'm wondering what to keep a stick insect in? I've got an old aquarium, would that do? An aquarium has solid sides making it an unsuitable enclosure for stick insects. Ventilation is very important for the welfare of stick insects and so it is best to house them in an enclosure with two fully ventilated sides that facilitate cross-flow air movement. The ELC cage is a purpose-designed enclosure for stick insects, with a successful proven track record, having been manufactured in the UK for the last fourteen years. My daughter is eight and is fascinated with bugs. Can you recommend an on-line resource she can read that isn't too dumbed down? She really enjoys reading the stick insect book called "Keeping Stick Insects" by Dorothy Floyd. As part of #insectweek, the Royal Entomological Society is promoting some free on-line resources to promote insects. Your daughter might like their "INSTAR" magazine, which contains a mixture of jokey light hearted pieces and more educational articles, written in a simple style aimed at children. Is 3.5cm excluding outstretched legs a reasonable length for an early fourth instar Indian stick insect? She is 5.5 weeks old. She is 5cm with outstretched legs included. It's always best to measure the total length of a stick insect, so that includes the front legs outstretched, because it is the total length that is important because that is the scientifically recognised measurement. During hot weather, the stick insect can grow much faster than usual and this is what is happening here. At two months old, an Indian stick insect (Carausius morosus) typically has a total length of 3.5cm, but yours is younger than that and already 5cm long. Unfortunately stick insects that have accelerated growth typically grow into undersized adults, with bodies that are both shorter and thinner. The standard length of a young adult Indian stick insect (five months old) is 11cm, but during hot weather their growth is accelerated and the total length can be only 9cm. To avoid this happening, try to keep your Indian stick insects in a room that is 18 - 21°C during the day and 12 - 14°C at night. We are really enjoying the stick insects. We are meeting their needs. Just a bit concerned on how I clean the ELC cage. I know it is with a sponge and cold water. But I'm worried about stressing them. Is it all the plastic and mesh? Before washing the ELC cage, take out all the stick insects and temporarily place them in a washing up bowl with a dry tea towel over the top. Do this in the morning when the stick insects are least active. Don't attempt to dismantle the cage, it's important to wash it assembled. Carefully wash all the clear plastic panels and the white mesh sides with the wet cleaning sponge. If there are any stains, dab the sponge into some dilute bleach and rub them until they disappear. Always use cold water or lukewarm water. Rinse well and dry the clear panels with a soft cotton tea towel. Use a thick bathroom towel to dry the white mesh panels. To clean the cage feet, turn the cage upside down. Carefully pull off each corner black foot in turn, rinse it with cold tap water, dry with a tea towel and push it back on. Finally, insert a new ELC Liner and food etc and then pop the stick insects back into their clean home. The whole process takes about ten minutes. Your followers may be interested to know that the UK government has just opened a public consultation about the proposed content for the GCSE natural history subject. So please urge all nature lovers to participate in this before the deadline in 3 months time, that's September 2026. Here is the consultation link. Yes, thank you for highlighting this initiative. For decades there have been calls for nature to be promoted in the secondary school curriculum. Finally , it looks like some action is being taken to address this. It is so important for the planet and for everyone's well-being to be more connected with the natural world and so I hope there is a large positive response to this proposal. Can I use a mesh enclosure for basic stick insects? Indian stick insects (Carausius morosus) are the basic stick insects and are the type most people start off with. You can house Indian stick insects in a mesh enclosure but is not ideal because it is difficult to see them through the net. So it is better to house Indian stick insects in the ELC stick insect cage because this has been purpose designed for housing stick insects and has a crystal clear front and top so you can easily see your stick insects. People enjoy keeping stick insects much more when they can see their new pets! Ventilation is very important for the health of stick insects and the ELC cage has two fully ventilated sides that provide the natural through-draught of air that Indian stick insects need to stay healthy. Stuffy tanks with solid sides are best avoided because the dank surroundings encourage mould and black fungal infections on the actual stick insects. Can you put the younger Indian stick insects with the older ones, or will they not get on? Indian stick insects (Carausius morosus) of different ages get along well with each other, so there is no cause for concern when mixing the different age groups. However, the very young Indian stick insects prefer less-ventilated surroundings and so that is why we recommend housing them in the HAP enclosure for the first few weeks of their lives. You can easily see them in the HAP too. When the Indian stick insects have a total body length (including the front legs outstretched) of 3.5cm, they prefer more airy surroundings and so are ready to be transferred to the ELC cage. This cage is much larger (51cm high) and has two fully ventilated sides that provide natural cross-flow ventilation. I understand stick insects need to hang upside down to moult, and the ELC cage doesn’t have a mesh roof, does that matter? Will they hang from the mesh side instead? Stick insects need to get a good foothold before embarking on a skin-change /moult. The two white sides of the ELC cage are full of specially made holes which are perfect for the stick insects to hook their claws around and get a good grip. So yes, stick insects shed their skins successfully on the mesh sides of the ELC cage. The advice of needing a mesh roof for skin changes only applies to stick insects housed in smooth sided tanks. These enclosures are not recommended because the sides have no holes and so it is not possible for the stick insects to grip these with their claws. So they have no choice but to go to the roof! This is risky as they sway about freely because there is no wall for support. Also, there is only ventilation at the top which is not good, because stick insects do much better in a cage with two full mesh sides that give cross-flow ventilation. The ELC cage is highly recommended for keeping stick insects successfully, and has been precision manufactured in the UK since 2012. Do stick insects escape? If housed correctly, most stick insects do not make much effort to escape, so even if you forget to put the lid back on the ELC cage, the chances are that most of the stick insects will still be in the cage the following morning! Most baby stick insects have relatively large bodies, for example the Thailand stick insect is 27mm long at birth, and so are physically too big to squeeze through round holes that are 2mm or 3mm in diameter. They also have no inclination to do so, providing they have fresh leaves in the enclosure. There are a few species which go out of their way to squeeze into crevices, but the popular species of stick insect that Small-Life Supplies breed and supply, including Indian stick insects (Carausius morosus), Pink Winged stick insects (Sipyloidea sipylus) and Thailand stick insects (Baculum thaii) do not exhibit this behaviour. The 6 Indian stick insects that we hatched (from the Egg Kit) and did well are all now happy and growing well. We think we see eggs on the ELC Liner. If we take these eggs now, how many months until they hatch? Any advice on storing them? Do we just put them in a small pot in the HAP as before? Good to hear that you're Indian stick insect (Carausius morosus) eggs have hatched and are now adults. And yes, just store the eggs in the Squat Pot in the HAP, as before. Don't do anything else, just wait and they should start hatching after 3 or 4 months. Usually in the summer, when it's hotter, the eggs hatch a bit quicker, so it'll probably be 3 months, which is around September 2026. I'd love a signed copy of the "Keeping Stick Insects" book with some encouraging words for our new Bug Club at school! I'd also like another copy for myself to read at home, do you have any used copies available cut-price? I'm an Early Career Teacher so looking to make savings! BTW the class stick insects are a big hit with the kids, even reaching those with more challenging behaviours. It's great that you are promoting stick insects at your school. Many teachers have told me that having classroom stick insects has been a great success and, like you have observed, sparked an interest in disengaged children. The book "Keeping Stick Insects" by Dorothy Floyd includes some topic ideas, which are helpful for teachers. The list price of this book is £12 but there are some £8 copies available, these are brand new but are discounted because sometimes mistakes happen during book signing! So, provided you are not fussed what dedication has been partially handwritten, these are a great buy! I'm gutted because two of my Indian stick insects have died in this heat! My room is 27°C. How can I cool them down, I don't want to lose any more? The easiest way to cool down your stick insects is to place ice blocks on top of the lid of the ELC cage. It's best to have lots of these blue ice blocks in your freezer, so that you have a steady supply. So when one ice block on the ELC cage has thawed, just swap it over with another frozen one from the freezer. Using this technique alongside other actions (closing windows during the day, closing curtains/blinds to minimise solar gain, moving the stick insect cage to a cooler room in your home) all helps to keep the temperature within the ELC cage to less than 25 °C which is the maximum temperature Indian stick insects (Carausius morosus) can comfortably tolerate. During this heat wave, it's best to mist the bramble leaves with water more generously than usual because, like other animals, stick insects are more thirsty when it is hot. What age can I stop cutting the edges of bramble leaves and cutting the thorns off the plant? They’re Indian stick insects aged 1-3 weeks. You seem to have been badly advised because neither of these actions is necessary or beneficial. Indian stick insects (Carausius morosus) can easily nibble the edge of a bramble leaf from Day One. Indeed the edge of a bramble leaf is naturally serrated which helps the stick insect position her mouthparts either side of the leaf. She then makes small cutting movements, repeatedly moving downwards in a semi-circular action. Depriving her of this natural leaf edge is detrimental and not natural. There is no benefit of removing the thorns either, they present no risk to the young stick insects and by removing the thorns you are damaging the foliage which has the negative effect of speeding up the wilting process. I don't understand where some of these stick insect species names come from? For example, Epidares nolimetangere... what does it mean? The two words form the species name, the first word is the genus and stick insects which roughly share the same physical characteristics are assigned the same genus. So, in this example, Epidares is the genus. The other word can be descriptive or relate to the country of origin. In this example "noli-me-tangere" is Latin for "Don't touch me". This is a reference to the spikes that cover this stick insect's body. It's a bit of an exaggerated description though, because the spikes on this stick insect are obvious but are not particularly sharp or dangerous. I visited an independent garden centre at the weekend and was horrified to see a large display of Round Up at the entrance! Do people really not realise that this poison is killing our birds, this year in particular I am seeing so many sad posts about British chicks dying in their nests. Because it's an independent outlet, I thought about contacting them about this matter, do you think I should? Unfortunately in the UK, a lot of people seem to be disconnected from nature and don't realise what effect their actions have on wildlife. For example, ripping out their lawn and flower beds in favour of the so-called "easy maintenance pebble garden" instantly kills hundreds of creatures. Installing lights in the garden causes light pollution at night and this harms any plants that are left and confuses nocturnal insects. Slug pellets kill the hedgehogs that eat the dying slugs. Spraying pesticides on the plants kills the chicks that are stuffed full of these poisoned insects by their unwitting parents. The more people who spread this information the better, because as the years go by I think the shock effect of Rachel Carson's book "The Silent Spring" is being lost. So yes, by all means contact the garden centre and explain why it is not right to be promoting these poisons, and especially not in the prime position in store. Is 8 months a reasonable lifespan for Indian stick insects? 3 out of 5 have recently died at that age, yet 2 are still going strong at almost 9 months. Also, is the upcoming warm weather in the UK going to make them age and die faster? I know it speeds up hatching and shedding but wasn’t sure about the effect on sticks of this age. It is not good that over half of your Indian stick insects (Carausius morosus) are dying so young. The normal lifespan for this species is 12 months. Indian stick insects prefer a daytime room temperature of 18 - 21 °Celsius, and a cooler night time temperature of 12 - 14 °Celsius. This species does not thrive at hot temperatures and so if the UK has another hot summer, it is important to move your cage of Indian stick insects to a shady cooler room in your home which will not get above 25 °Celsius. Hot conditions speed up egg development and growth of Indian stick insects but these stick insects are always less healthy and so hot temperatures are best avoided for this species. There are a few species of stick insect that thrive in hot conditions, for example the Australian Macleays Spectre stick insect (Extatosoma tiaratum) and so if your home is always hot, you could try keeping those instead. Do you need to treat tap water for stick insects? In the UK, tap water is fine for stick insects. We use cold tap water straight from the tap to fill the Sprig Pots with water (these keep the bramble sprigs fresh for up to a week). We also use cold tap water straight from the tap to fill the Misters and then lightly spray water onto the leaves so the stick insects can drink the water droplets. The suggestion of using specially treated water is not applicable for stick insect keepers living in the UK. Our New Guinea nymphs are so pretty, the colours and patterns are amazing. What are the chances of any of them maintaining this look as adults? Newly hatched New Guinea stick insects (Eurycantha calcarata) are always brown, but when they shed their skins they can develop interesting colour patterns and varying shades of brown and green, as you are seeing. These nice colours and patterns persist whilst the New Guinea stick insects are nymphs (immature stick insects). However, as soon as they mature and become fully grown adults, the males become a dark glossy mahogany brown. The adult females are a lighter shade of brown, sometimes being more of a tan colour. The adults are uniform in colour, so there are no longer the mottled patterns you can see in some of the nymphs. Very occasionally, you can see a green adult female but this is incredibly rare. What size should a stick insect enclosure be? Stick insects need a tall cage, so the ELC cage at 51cm high is ideal. It is a mistake to try and house stick insects in enclosures that are only 30cm high because they are not tall enough to allow the stick insects room to grow properly. Stick insects grow by sliding vertically downwards out of their old skins and so need a tall cage 51cm high to allow them space to do this successfully. It is sad when people post pictures of their stick insect mis-moults, unfortunately this suffering is entirely predictable when the stick insect enclosure is nowhere near tall enough. Say no, no, no to freezing stick insect eggs! THIS DOES NOT WORK! Stick insect eggs have evolved to cope with very low temperatures, so putting eggs in a freezer does not kill them. Diapause kicks in meaning the cold just pauses egg development. Take the eggs out of the freezer and - guess what - they thaw and recommence incubation. I asked my biology class for a strap line about this and we chose this one: "Cold doesn't kill stick insect eggs but hot water will". Thought I'd share that with you and your followers to help people dispose of their surplus stick insect eggs humanely. Pouring hot water over unwanted stick insect eggs is the very fast and 100% effective method to stop them developing. Stick insect eggs usually take months to develop and so it is recommended to dispose of surplus eggs in this manner every week when you replace the disposable ELC Liner in the ELC stick insect cage. Well done for raising this issue with your biology students and explaining why the freezer method is not guaranteed to work. And yes, I agree with the adage "Cold doesn't kill stick insect eggs but hot water will". I've found an old wooden framed enclosure with four netting sides, would this be OK to house Indian stick insects? It's not great because you have to reach down from the top, but I'm wondering if it would do as a temporary cage for a few weeks before I've got the funds to upgrade to an ELC cage? Indian stick insects (Carausius morosus) do best in the ELC cage which has two fully ventilated sides, providing cross-flow ventilation. They can survive in an enclosure with four netting sides, but the extra ventilation is of no benefit to them and the negatives are that the foliage will dry up quicker and it is very difficult to see the stick insects because you need to peer through the netting. One of the pleasures of keeping stick insects is that you can watch them easily and so it's really important to house them in an enclosure that facilitates this. And, as you've already mentioned, easy access is important and you can reach horizontally into the ELC cage by sliding up one of the rigid white mesh walls. So, yes, you could use your existing enclosure for a few weeks. Or, you could wait a while longer and get the stick insects and ELC cage together, so you can start enjoying keeping your stick insects correctly from the start. Also, if you get the stick insects and the ELC cage at the same time, you're only paying the delivery charge once. Is the care of stick insect eggs the same, regardless of the species? I've hatched Indian stick insects before no problem, but am having issues hatching our Thailand stick insect eggs because the babies are getting their legs tangled up? How do I address this issue? Hatching Indian stick insect eggs (Carausius morosus) is really easy, you just save them in the HAP and wait. Hatching Thailand stick insect eggs (Baculum thaii) is slightly different, because you need to scatter some dry stick insect poo (called frass) over the eggs and then leave this mixture in the HAP and wait. We use this technique and it enables the Thailand stick insect babies (called first instar nymphs) to hatch successfully, without the leg tangling issue. It's a good idea to save stick insect frass anyway, because it makes excellent fertiliser when scattered over soil in the garden or over your houseplants. I’ve had several of my stick insects - mainly older ones but a couple of babies - die recently and seem to be losing limbs. I was wondering if you had any advice for this. Leg loss occurs when the stick insects are stressed, so you need to run through the following checklist. Is the enclosure large enough (51cm tall) and well-ventilated (with two full mesh sides)? Are you misting the leaves lightly with cold tap water every afternoon or early evening? Are you feeding them the correct leaves, most species of stick insect eat bramble (blackberry) leaves? Have you got too many in the cage (this can cause them to fight)? Are they in the dark at night (stick insects get very stressed if they are in permanent light)? Is there paper lining the floor of the enclosure (this is much better than soil that attracts mould and can cause fungal infections)? What's the best thing for housing stick insects? The ELC cage is the best housing for stick insects. This enclosure has been specifically designed for stick insects and has the key features required. These are: optimum 51cm height, natural cross-flow ventilation, great climbing surfaces and crystal clear front, back and roof so you can see the stick insects easily. The ELC cage is made in the UK and has been manufactured here for the last 14 years! How do you change leaves? Do you physically remove all the stick insects from the leaves then put them back? Or can I just keep adding fresh and let the old wither away? The leaves stay fresh for one week if you push the sprigs into a Sprig Pot of cold tap water. The majority of the stick insects will be resting on the white mesh sides of the ELC cage because this provides them with a better foothold than the leaves. After a week when it is time to put fresh foliage into the cage, the simplest way is to add a second Sprig Pot full of fresh bramble. Any stick insects that are on the old leaves are likely to move over to eat the fresh leaves later that night. You can remove the Sprig Pot containing the withered leaves the next day. What size can you put babies with adults? I'm asking about Indian stick insects. Adult Indian stick insects (Carausius morosus) won't harm baby Indian stick insects but it's best to house these sizes separately at first, because they have different ventilation requirements. The adult Indian stick insects (and medium and large nymphs) all do best in an enclosure with two fully ventilated sides that provide natural through-draught ventilation, so the ELC stick insect cage is ideal. In contrast, baby Indian stick insects (called first instar nymphs) prefer less-ventilated surroundings and so should be housed in the HAP (a clear 13cm tall unventilated container) and given a fresh wet bramble leaf to eat. When the Indian stick insect has grown to a total length of 3.5cm, she prefers more airy surroundings and that is when she should be transferred to the larger ventilated ELC enclosure. My 3 day old Indian stick insect is doing stringy poo, although not particularly long. Is that normal for their age? She has plenty of hydration and access to fresh bramble. There is no need for concern, this behaviour is often seen at this time of year because of the constitution of the new bramble leaves. After a few weeks when the bramble leaves thicken up and become a bit darker, this issue should disappear. Should I spray inside the stick insects enclosure? Do the stick insects mind getting wet? Every afternoon, lightly spray the leaves so the stick insects can drink from the water droplets on the leaves. Don't get the actual stick insects wet because they do not like this! And don't randomly spray inside the enclosure because this is not needed and poses the risk of mould developing. The best stick insect enclosure is the ELC cage which was launched in 2012 and continues to be a fantastic enclosure for many commonly kept species of stick insect. Just seen Bill Bailey review the "Keeping Stick Insects" book by Dorothy Floyd on YouTube - hysterical! Is this book still available to buy at a sensible price, not the £50 for a used copy on Amazon? Yes, I thought it was funny too! And yes, this best-selling book has never been out of print. Brand new copies are available in the UK for £12 + delivery, you can purchase from Small-Life Supplies or from our numonday shop https://www.numonday.com/shop/small-life-supplies. Personal signed copies of this book are available too, at no extra charge. Am tempted by the lime green Diapherodes gigantea stick insects, but am reading conflicting advice about their care? Specifically their preferred foodplant and humidity requirements. Not sure if you breed these but thought I'd ask the expert anyway! Yes, we breed these brightly coloured Grenadan stick insects, often called "Green Bean" stick insects. They eat eucalyptus leaves and do best in the ELC cage (which has two ventilated sides for cross-flow ventilation). Grenadan stick insects drink a lot and so a shallow Water Dish filled with cold tap water should be provided. The frass (poo) is derived from eucalyptus and discolours the water quickly, so it's important to replace the water daily. I really want another ELC stick insect cage for my stick insects but I live on the Isle of Man...is there any way you can send one to me? Yes we can, it is a two stage delivery process. We send the ELC cage to a specialist Isle of Man transport company based in Lancashire for the standard delivery price of £9.96 with your name on the parcel. They send lorries over to the Isle of Man daily and you pay them directly to deliver the cage to you. If you'd like to proceed, please get in touch and we'll give you the details of this firm. My question is about stick insect enclosures. I've seen some sites promoting "acrylic arboreal stick insect enclosures 20cm x 20cm x 30cm ", stressing that stick insects need vertical space. But that size is much smaller than what you recommend, your ELC stick insect enclosure is 36.5cm x 27.5cm x 51cm. Correct height and ventilation in a stick insect enclosure are key factors to successful rearing of stick insects. Many stick insects do well in a cage that is approx 48cm high, so the ELC stick insect cage at 51cm high is ideal. An enclosure that is only 30cm tall should not be advertised as being "arboreal" because that height is not recognised as being tall. The issue with keeping stick insects in cramped surroundings is that they have not got enough vertical space to grow properly and this results in body deformities (usually bent bodies that never straighten out). The two fully ventilated sides of the ELC cage also provide the optimum ventilation that many species of stick insects require, this amount of natural air-flow is absent from tanks that just have a few holes drilled in the walls. Do stick insects bite? No. Stick insects have mouthparts called mandibles and maxillary palps, which are designed to cut and chew leaves, and are not designed for biting people. Preschool teacher here, looking for a stick insect as a class pet! I think they’d be a great way to teach kids about camouflage, survival tactics, and insects without scaring families or staff. Yes, stick insects are great class pets. Stick insects like company of their own kind and so it's best to purchase several stick insects instead of just one by itself. And an easy to keep type is best for a preschool environment. So I'd recommend a pack of four Indian stick insects (Carausius morosus) and the ELC cage to house them. The ELC stick insect cage has crystal clear plastic front, back and roof and so the children will easily be able to watch the stick insects eating and moving around, so will remain engaged with these fascinating creatures. Is there such as thing as a dangerous stick insect? Yes, so it is very important that you don't purchase a dangerous species of stick insect because this can put yourself, your family and other pets at risk. All the species of stick insect that Small-Life Supplies breed and sell are harmless and safe to handle, so you can relax if you purchase any livestock from us. Unfortunately there are some dangerous species offered elsewhere for sale, these range from causing nasal and throat irritations to more severe breathing difficulties and in the worse case scenario temporary blindness. The privet eating Peruvian Black Beauty stick insect (Peruphasma schultei) can spray a chemical from its body that can cause sneezing amongst sensitive people, and so that species should not be kept in schools or by people who have a heightened response to air-borne chemicals. There are a handful of more dangerous species, including one from Jamaica that eats privet and can cause serious breathing difficulties if their chemical defence spray is inhaled. And the Florida stick insect (also called the "Devil rider" and "southern two stripe") Anisomorpha buprestoides can cause temporary blindness amongst people and furry pets if it's spray lands on a mammalian eyeball. Four of our stick insect eggs hatched last night! Should we house them in the ELC cage straight away? They are baby Indian stick insects, brown and 2cm long (tip to tip). We are newbies, so please share any of your expert knowledge, Professor! Congratulations on your new arrivals, baby stick insects are also called "first instar" nymphs. Healthy newly hatched Indian stick insects (Carausius morosus) are brown and have a total length of 2cm, so it's good that yours look like this. The most successful way to raise Indian stick insects is initially to house them in an unventilated enclosure (such as the HAP) for the first month of their life, before transferring them to the more airy ELC cage when they have shed their skins and grown a bit. This is because the very young Indian stick insects prefer less ventilated surroundings, but after a few weeks, these Indian stick insects need more ventilated surroundings to thrive. The key stage to transfer Indian stick insects to the ELC cage is when they have a total body length of 3.5cm. How long does it take a stick insect to shed her skin - minutes, hours, days? The duration of a stick insect skin-change, commonly called a "shed" or the scientific word is "ecdysis" depends on the size of the stick insect. A young stick insect typically completes a skin-change within ten minutes, but a larger, older stick insect may need thirty minutes to do this. Some stick insects acquire large wings at their final skin-change and these wings need to be unfurled and pumped out, so this adds another half hour to the process. Any stick insect that is still trying to shed its skin after several hours is in trouble. Good husbandry minimises skin-change disasters which is why it is so important to house stick insects in an enclosure of the correct size, optimum ventilation and with appropriately sized footholds (so the stick insect can get a good grip and won't fall off during the shedding process). The ELC stick insect cage is very well designed and so is ideal housing for stick insects commonly kept as pets. Is it easy to tell the difference between the "New Thailand" and the "Thailand" stick insect? And if they were housed together, is there any risk of cross-breeding? . They are easy to tell apart. A New Thailand stick insect (Baculum sp) grows to 22cm, has an orange band on her abdomen, a little spur under her abdomen, and the top of her head is flat. The Thailand stick insect (Baculum thaii) female grows to 18.5cm and has two horns on her head. The Thailand stick insect (Baculum thaii) male is very thin, with yellow eyes, a purplish brown body and grows to 17.5cm. The Thailand stick insects mate regularly throughout their adult lives. The New Thailand stick insects are parthenogenetic and no males have been seen yet. There is no risk of cross-breeding. Can you recommend a stick insect with a long lifespan that would be suitable for a recently retired person who's eyesight isn't the best? New Guinea stick insects (Eurycantha calcarata) are long-lived stick insects, on average living between 18 months and two years. These are big chunky stick insects, without wings, that like a lot of exercise and so should be taken out of the ELC cage regularly so they can plod across a table or floor. New Guinea stick insects eat bramble (blackberry) leaves and also hazel leaves (when these are available in the summer months). New Guinea stick insects require more water to drink than many other types of stick insect, and so you need to put a shallow water dish into the ELC cage. Because New Guinea stick insects like so much attention, they are ideal for people who have the time to spend interacting with these very rewarding pets. I have recently inherited 5 baby stick insects and one adult one year old from my niece, she thought I would be better at looking after them. I have them in the enclosure in this photo. Can you advise if this is suitable, including enclosure and amount of foliage and if not advice for what to do. Your photo shows stick insects in a netting enclosure, which is not as good as the ELC stick insect cage because it's difficult to see the actual stick insects (you have to peer through the net), whereas the ELC stick insect cage has crystal clear plastic front, back and roof, so you can effortlessly see your stick insects and enjoy watching them eating and moving around inside the enclosure. Observing your stick insects easily is key to maximising the enjoyment you get from keeping these fascinating creatures and so that's why an enclosure that is easy to see into is recommended. Most stick insects eat bramble (blackberry) leaves but I can't see any of this in your enclosure? So I'd recommend you gather some fresh bramble asap. It's good to stand the cut stems in a Sprig Pot of cold tap water, because this keeps the leaves fresh for about one week. Is the frequency of a rare male Indian stick insect occurring still 1 in 10000? Or is it increasing or decreasing? I guess you guys keep records of when a rare male appears in your commercial breeding stocks? Yes, it's always exciting to spot a rare male Indian stick insect (Carausius morosus) in the breeding facility at Small-Life Supplies. These really rare males look completely different to the adult females. Decades ago scientists estimated the probability to be 1 male in every 10000 females, so that is 0.01%. Small-Life Supplies has been breeding many thousands of Indian stick insects since 1985 and yes, we can confirm that this figure is correct. And there is one adult male Indian stick insect in our breeding stocks at the moment! The males are very lively, as seen in our YouTube video: YES! Healthy stick insects look like this. In our stocks of Indian stick insects, the frequency of 1 male in every 10000 females occurring has not changed in the last 41 years. So our findings support the published research and it seems logical that it has always been at this rate and will continue to be so. OK, so last month we went to a garden centre and purchased a pot of privet. It's been sitting on the patio ever since, so has been rained on and had sunshine too. A few new leaves are opening at the ends today. Is it safe to snip a bit off for Precious, our Peruvian Black Beauty stick insect? I've heard horror stories about potted plants poisoning stick insects but I can't remember how long the poisons in the pot remain active? I couldn't bear any harm coming to Precious. Don't risk it! As a rough guide, all shop bought potted plants should be left for 12 months before any leaves are harvested to feed stick insects. This is because the insecticides are in the soil and are very long lasting. These poisons are taken up by the roots of the plant and distributed within the stems and leaves of the plant. So no amount of rain will wash them off because they are inside the plant. You could plant your privet in your garden (it has long roots so you will need to dig a deep hole). Or, if you don't have a garden, I recommend you buy a much larger plant pot so you can move your privet into a larger container in a few months time. When doing this, it's really important that you purchase insecticide-free potting compost, so search out the John Innes brand (this is widely available in the UK). WOW, it was so hot yesterday, I had eight New Guinea stick insects hatch! This has never happened before, was it the sunny weather? Congratulations on your baby New Guinea stick insects (Eurycantha calcarata)! And yes, hot sunny weather always boosts hatching, so that's why you had so many emerge yesterday. Baby stick insects are called first instar nymphs and they are always thirsty after being born, so it's really important to give them a wet bramble leaf. Young New Guinea stick insects do well in an unventilated container, so the HAP is suitable for up to six first and second instar New Guinea stick insect nymphs. They should be transferred to the ELC cage when larger because, like many other stick insects, medium sized to adult New Guinea stick insects do best in a cage with two ventilated sides. They do not thrive in net enclosures because these surroundings are too airy for this species. We'd love to get stick insects for Easter, so we can devote lots of time to them during the Easter holiday. Our garden has plenty of bramble and three hazel trees, so we're sorted for food! We also have a small privet bush, but I see that's not on your recommended food list for Indian stick insects. My grandfather insists he fed his Indian stick insects with privet leaves when he was a boy, but that was last century so has the guidance changed? Yes, the Easter break provides an ideal opportunity to get to know your new stick insects. Indian stick insects (Carausius morosus) are the ideal choice to begin your stick insect journey, they are definitely the easiest type to look after. Many Indian stick insects stopped eating privet about thirty years ago, despite it being a staple foodplant for them for decades previously. So now, in 2026, the best food for Indian stick insects is bramble (blackberry) leaves, this can be supplemented with hazel and rose leaves in the summer, when they are available. I've got aphids in the ELC cage and they are making a sticky mess on the viewing panels. I know they aren't harming the stick insects but I don't want them in there so what's the best method to get rid and also clean up the enclosure? You need to empty the ELC cage and then wash it thoroughly with lukewarm water and dilute bleach. Use the soft Cleaning Sponge that was supplied with the ELC cage bundle to do this. Afterwards, rinse the ELC cage with cold water and dry with a soft cotton tea towel. Pick some fresh bramble sprigs, inspecting them first to ensure you choose ones without aphids hiding under the leaves. Snip off and discard the fresh green tiny bramble shoots and push the sprigs into the Sprig Pot of cold tap water. You may need to do all this again in a few weeks time if you have another aphid outbreak, but fortunately the remedial actions described are quick and easy to do. I've been told that stick insects need to eat established bramble leaves and not the fresh growth, but at what size does the fresh growth become safe to eat? I've got Pink Winged stick insects, nice young adults. The key measurement is 3cm, so when the lobe of the pale green bramble leaf is 3cm or more, it is safe for the stick insects to eat. The Small-Life Supplies YouTube video How To Feed Stick Insects in the Spring # 001 demonstrates this. Every April this issue arises because this is when most bramble bushes across the UK have a growth spurt of fresh tiny leaves (which if eaten, can harm the stick insects). We have the ELC stick insect enclosure and would like to try keeping the Eurycantha species. We have bred Indian stick insects and Pink Winged stick insects successfully and my son (he's thirteen) feels he is ready for the Eurycantha species which looks awesome. Does Small-Life Supplies still breed the Eurycantha stick insects and if so, would a pair be OK in the same cage as the Indian stick insects and Pink Winged stick insects? Or would we need a second ELC cage? It's great that you and your son are enjoying keeping stick insects. There are three Eurycantha species: Eurycantha calcarata, Eurycantha insularis and Eurycantha horrida. Undoubtedly the best species to keep as a pet is the Eurycantha calcarata because these are long lived, easy to handle and have nice colour variations. Their common name is the New Guinea stick insect and Small-Life Supplies have been breeding these for many years. Ours are used to being handled and have calm temperaments. At the moment they are too young to dispatch to customers nationwide but they will be up to size and ready to travel safely within weeks. So please ask to go on our waiting list, or check back on this website in a few weeks time. Due to the size and bulk of the New Guinea stick insects (Eurycantha calcarata), we recommend housing them in an ELC cage separate to the other slimmer species of stick insects. This avoids the risk of a New Guinea stick insect accidentally harming a thin stick insect by treading on it. Is it better to buy stick insects that are alive or better to buy stick insect eggs and wait for them to hatch? They are for my daughter who'll be 14 next week. I recommend buying living stick insects because these can be handled straight away and so your daughter can enjoy handling them and caring for them. If she purchases the Indian stick insects nymphs (highly recommended), she can watch them grow into adults during the next few weeks. Indian stick insects (Carausius morosus) eat bramble (blackberry) leaves and do well in the ELC stick insect enclosure. Small-Life Supplies guarantee live arrival of stick insects and we'll let you know the approximate time of delivery (within a two hour delivery window). Wow, I saw your Beet Moth Cage in action on the BBC Countryfile programme. Very impressive - I did not realise you manufactured such large insect cages! Our lab needs a couple of custom-made steel cages, each 1300mm high x 480mm across x 480mm deep. Is this something you could help us with? Yes, Small-Life Supplies manufactures custom made insect cages, these range from small cages that fit in your hand to the large insect cages which are just under 2 metres. Please phone Small-Life Supplies on 01733 913480 to discuss your project further and we will happily prepare a Quotation for you. Please allow 4-5 weeks lead time for us to design, manufacture and deliver bespoke cages to you. Please tell me if it's possible to keep my New Guinea stick insects green? Do they need special food to be green? New Guinea stick insects (Eurycantha calcarata) are often mottled green as nymphs. However, when they become fully grown, the males become glossy dark brown and the females usually become a slightly less glossy mid brown. It is extremely rare to see a green adult female New Guinea stick insect, and at Small-Life Supplies we have only seen these rare individuals occurring on a few occasions. Their unusual colouring isn't passed onto the next generation. We feed our New Guinea stick insects with bramble (blackberry) leaves. They can also eat some leaves of the Red Robin (Photinia), but this does not affect the colour of the stick insects' bodies. How easy is it to hatch Indian stick insect eggs? It is very easy to hatch out Indian stick insect eggs (Carausius morosus) but you need to be patient! This is because Indian stick insect eggs take four months to hatch. Place a few Indian stick insect eggs in the HAP, which is a clear container that Small-Life Supplies has specially manufactured to store stick insect eggs. The HAP provides the correct conditions for the eggs to develop properly and so don't modify it. Keep the eggs dry, so don't spray any water in there. Four months later the babies (called first instar nymphs) will hatch out. The eggs usually hatch at night and so you will see the relatively large brown baby stick insect that is 19mm long in the morning. It is important to insert a wet bramble leaf into the HAP later that day, so the baby stick insects can drink first and then have a nibble at the edge of the bramble leaf. There is no need to tear the leaves, the baby Indian stick insects have mouthparts evolved to cut and then chew the edges of the leaves. What’s everyone got their stick insects in/setup? Some people want to make their own enclosure, but it's easier to buy the purpose-made stick insect cage, called the ELC cage. This has the height (51cm) that stick insects need to be able to grow properly. And, very importantly, two fully ventilated sides that give the cross-flow ventilation required. Squat glass or plastic tanks are not suitable because they are too small and stuffy for most stick insects to thrive and so stick insects kept in those conditions can suffer from deformities and black fungal infections. ELC cages are manufactured in the UK and are in stock at Small-Life Supplies (sometimes lightly used ones are available too). Are stick insects for classrooms a good idea? I'm concerned it might be too noisy for them? I teach year 8 but am keen to get some stick insects to spark more interest in nature. Many schools successfully keep stick insects in the classroom. Stick insects can hear (their ears are by their knees) but their native habitat (the tropical rainforest) is very noisy and so they can easily cope with noise from a classroom of children. Popular stick insects for schools include the robust Indian stick insects (Carausius morosus) and the pretty Pink Winged stick insects (Sipyloidea sipylus). Teachers who have their own Bug Clubs tell us that the Thailand stick insects (Baculum thaii) are a hit with the boys in particular, because the adult male Thailand stick insects are very lively and move quite fast! We'd love some giant stick insects - what do you recommend? We've seen "Giant Thorny stick insects" for sale, would these be a good choice? I don't recommend Giant Thorny stick insects, aka Giant Sabah stick insects (Trachyaretaon brueckneri/carmelae) because they are not giant at all! True they are larger than the standard Sabah stick insects (Aretaon asperrimus) but are certainly not one of the big species and so shouldn't really be advertised as such. Also a common issue with both these species of Sabah stick insects is that the adults can suddenly die for no apparent reason, which is obviously upsetting for all. So that is why Small-Life Supplies no longer breeds any Sabah stick insects. The easiest giant stick insect to keep is the New Guinea stick insect (Eurycantha calcarata), these are huge chunky stick insects that can live up to two years old and are active, so appreciate being taken out of the ELC cage regularly so they can walk across a table or floor. New Guinea stick insects eat bramble (blackberry) leaves and need a water dish because they drink a lot of water. Got myself some African snails, the Achatina fulica ones. I thought they'd like some greens and so I've chucked in some random green leaves, but they haven't been eaten? Are these snails fussy about their greens? Yes, Giant African Land Snails (Achatina fulica) are very fussy about what leaves they eat. Fortunately dandelion leaves are a firm favourite and these leaves are available all year round. It's best to locate some dandelion plants growing wild and then take the minimum, so harvest just one leaf from a dandelion plant. That way the plant can quickly recover and grow more leaves, so you will always have a supply. As well as dandelion leaves, it's good to give your snails a range of vegetables to eat, including potato and carrot peelings and slices of courgette. And rinsed out hen eggshells provide an excellent source of calcium (much better than cuttlefish bone which has a high salt content). Our stick insect food was delivered today, thanks. With the leaves, should I put most/all of them in at once, or one or two at a time and then replace as they get eaten? Stick insects get stressed if there are only a few leaves visible, so it's important that they can always see a lot of food. So push two or three tall sprigs of bramble into the Sprig Pot. Then after about a week, replace with fresh leaves, not because they will have all been eaten, but because the bramble leaves will no longer be at their best. Stick insects need to eat good quality leaves that are nutritious. The wallet of Fresh Cut Bramble stays fresh for 7-10 days. My 12 year old is mad about bugs and so I'd like to buy stick insects for his birthday. Can I specify a delivery date? (His birthday is next week.) Stick insects are fantastic pets and your 12 year old will enjoy caring for his own stick insects. I'd recommend the Indian stick insects (Carausius morosus) and/or the Pink Winged stick insects (Sipyloidea sipylus) because these are easy to keep and both eat bramble (blackberry) leaves. The best enclosure for stick insects is the ELC cage and everything can be sent together. Small-Life Supplies prioritise the welfare of the stick insects and can only dispatch them during mild nights, so they will arrive safely (live arrival is guaranteed). Fortunately mild nights are forecast next week, and so yes, you can specify a delivery date which works best for you. I’ve just noticed that one of my six month old Indian stick insects is unable to bend her left front knee. She is active and doesn’t seem ill, but js finding it difficult to coordinate herself with the leg out of action. I attach a video clip, can she live a normal life like this? Your video shows she can't move either of her front legs properly, and she is exercising her mouthparts. These symptoms suggest she has damaged her nervous system, probably by falling awkwardly and hitting her head. Apart from these issues she looks fat and healthy and her other four legs are moving fine. I suggest you put some wet bramble leaves on the floor of the cage to make it easier for her to eat and drink. If she can eat OK, she can manage with just four legs (and may well discard the other legs that do not work). My concern is if she will be able to eat. Are her mouthparts still moving continuously because if they are this means she won't be able to eat properly. The best thing to do is to rest her on a wet bramble leaf so she can drink. Hopefully she will be able to eat, but if not, she will die soon and the kindest thing to do is just let her rest on a wet bramble leaf so she can pass peacefully without suffering. Do you have issues with stick insects eating thornless blackberry? Ours won't touch the leaves? The stick insects bred at Small-Life Supplies all eat common bramble (blackberry), which has thorns on the stems. In fact the most nutritious bramble has very thick thorns on the stems (which are two tone in colour, green and purple). The thorns are not a problem for the stick insects because they simply walk around them. To protect your fingers, we recommend thick suede gardening gloves (the "Town and Country" brand are what we use). In general, the thornless bramble varieties and the brambles with little thorns have much thinner leaves and are much less nutritious, so are best avoided. Can I buy baby stick insects from you? They look so cute! Baby stick insects are too delicate to go though the postal network. Small-Life Supplies guarantee live arrival of stick insects and so we only send them when they are large enough to travel safely. We dispatch stick insect youngsters, called "nymphs", and also young adults. The overnight temperature needs to be above freezing for it to be warm enough for the stick insects to travel safely and so we frequently monitor the weather forecast and let you know in advance when delivery will be. Do you sell your ELC stick insect cages to Brazil? They look excellent and just what we need! ELC stick insect cages are manufactured in the UK and are only available to customers in the UK. Unfortunately the ELC cage is not shipped internationally. I need Clip Cages to research Colorado potato beetle assays. For the beetle larvae the Clip Cages need to be only one sided with an open ring on the other side just to keep it clipped. Do you have such one-sided clips at all? Yes, Clip Cages can be manufactured to this specification. The classic Clip Cage for aphids has two clear viewing cylinders, but we can produce Clip Cages for Colorado beetle larvae with just one clear viewing cylinder. Small-Life Supplies manufacture Clip Cages in the UK and so please let us know how many of this version you require. I am beyond excited because I have finally got a male Indian stick insect! I attach a photo. He is so lively and already hangs out with his favourite females! Any idea how long he'll live? He became fully grown two weeks ago. Congratulations on your rare male Indian stick insect (Carausius morosus), the chance of seeing one is only 1 in 10000 which is 0.01% ! He looks nice and healthy and so will live for several months as an adult, just like the standard females. He'll mate at night, this is very quick. And during the day, he'll rest with his favourite females, as you have observed, often with one of his feet on the body of a female. How can I make my stick insect enclosure look more natural? Attach the "Dappled Glade Background" sheet to the back of the ELC cage to instantly create a naturalistic look. Enhance this further by inserting a green ELC Liner on the floor of the ELC stick insect cage. And place fresh sprigs of bramble (blackberry) leaves (in the Sprig Pot of cold tap water) in the cage for the stick insects to eat. Avoid putting artificial plants in the enclosure because if these smell, they can harm the stick insects. Can more than one Indian stick insect (Carausius morosus) live together in an enclosure? We have one on its own at the moment. When I was younger I had three in an enclosure together and they were fine. Someone told me that they might eat each other so I´m curious if this is true? Thinking of purchasing another for my daughter. If they like company I think it would be lovely for her to have a couple of friends. Stick insects like company of their own kind and so it's always best to have several in the ELC cage rather than just one on its own. Indeed, Indian stick insects (Carausius morosus) usually group together on a white mesh side of the ELC cage. So I'd recommend your purchase a few more Indian stick insects to keep your existing one company. Small-Life Supplies sell Indian stick insects in packs of two and packs of four. Stick insects only attack and eat each other if they are being severely maltreated, such as being starved, deprived of water, or are being kept in very overcrowded conditions. Our four Indian stick insect adults which we got from you are chomping their way through the bramble leaves. Do they get bored of eating bramble? I'm toying with the idea of purchasing a eucalyptus plant for my greenhouse to vary their diet a bit? Indian stick insects (Carausius morosus) do really well on a diet exclusively of bramble (blackberry) leaves. So I'd recommend you keep feeding yours with bramble leaves. In the summer months, you can give them some hazel leaves and wild rose leaves, to supplement their staple diet of bramble leaves (and give your bramble bushes a chance to recover). Hazel trees and rose bushes are deciduous which means they don't have any leaves in the winter. I wouldn't bother with a potted eucalyptus plant in your greenhouse. This is because you will need to wait 12 months before it is safe to harvest any leaves for the stick insects (it takes this long for the pesticides in the soil and plant to have broken down). And potted eucalyptus plants require skilful watering, they need a lot of water but not too much otherwise the leaves develop brown lumps and become unpalatable for the stick insects. I was shocked to hear about the widespread "Honey Fraud" on Radio 4. I expect you already know about this, but I thought it would be of interest to readers of your page to know about this topic. Apparently lots of "honey" sold in supermarkets isn't honey at all, it is a cheap concoction made from syrup and goodness knows what else! Lots comes in from China and this shady practice is putting genuine British honey producers out of business. Yes, I am aware British Beekeepers have been voicing concern about this fraud for many years, but the race to the bottom mentality of the supermarkets has meant that no action has been taken to address this criminality. As British consumers, we have the choice where to buy our honey. So I always buy honey from local artisan producers, based in Cambridgeshire and Norfolk. Obviously the price is more than double what the supermarkets sell. The point is, there is no comparison because the product the supermarkets sell is often not proper honey. Also, it is ethically right to support local small businesses and I urge others to do the same. My ten year old boy is mad on bugs and would love some stick insects, can you recommend some and a decent sized enclosure? Indian stick insects are the best type to start with and they do really well in the ELC stick insect cage, which is 51cm high. The ELC enclosure is tall and has two full mesh sides which provides the air-flow that Indian stick insects need to thrive. Your 10 year old will enjoy handling his Indian stick insects (Carausius morosus) and he can easily feed them by gathering fresh bramble leaves once a week. How often do stick insects shed their skins? And why do some people say shred skin instead of shed skin? Most stick insects shed their skins six times in five months, this is how they grow. This is a common process in insects and is called ecdysis. The correct terminology is shed skin, therefore "shred skin" is incorrect and is a typo. Yey, the Indian stick insect eggs I got for Christmas are hatching! Three so far, all looking good. How does such a big insect fit inside such a small egg? And one of them still has this egg on her back leg, should I be worried about this? She seems fine, I hear it clanking in the HAP when she moves! Great to hear that your Indian stick insect (Carausius morosus) eggs are hatching on schedule. The baby stick insect (called a first instar nymph) usually emerges at night. Her legs are the correct size but her body is tiny, she waits until she is out of the egg before quickly expanding her body (within minutes) to the full size you see in the morning. Don't worry if the eggshell is attached to a leg, the stick insect can cope well and carries it around like a ball and chain. Often it drops off within days, but if not, she will be free of it after her first skin change (ecdysis). Do not be tempted to try and help by pulling the eggshell off because this usually makes things worse - either by deforming the leg or panicking the stick insect into throwing off her whole leg. Can stick insects breathe under water usually? One of mine has accidentally fallen or climbed in to the water jar through a small uncovered area (now sorted). Luckily I took him out as soon as I saw he was under water and he seems fine thank goodness. Stick insects breathe thorough a series of holes (spiracles) that are either side of their abdomen. In an emergency, for example if the stick insect has fallen into water, these holes can be closed. Amazingly, a stick insect can survive underwater, not breathing, for a few or many minutes (depending on the size of the stick insect). When the stick insect is rescued from the water, its recovery time depends on how long its spiracles have been closed. If the stick insect has only been in the water for a short time, recovery will be quick. However, if it has been in the water for longer, the stick insect will appear lifeless for hours before getting back to normal. Unfortunately if the stick insect has been submerged overnight, then it will have died. So it is a relief that you rescued your stick insect so quickly. Fantastic that you have stick insects for sale! Now that's it's warmer, I'd like to buy some Pink Winged stick insects. My question is will they cohabit well with my gang of Indian stick insects? I have the ELC cage already. Yes, you can keep Pink Winged stick insects (Sipyloidea sipylus) together with Indian stick insects (Carausius morosus) because they live happily together in the same ELC cage. They both eat bramble (blackberry) leaves and do best in an enclosure with two fully ventilated walls and so the ELC cage is ideal. We're so excited because our stick insects are arriving next week, we purchased the ELC cage bundle before Christmas. Could you please tell me how we transfer the Pink Winged stick insects onto the liner? Do I have to pick them up? Slightly nervous about that considering they are so delicate! Any tips would be very helpful. It's a good idea to have the ELC cage set up in advance for the arrival of your stick insects, and so place a Liner on the floor of the cage and place the Sprig Pot with a couple of tall bramble sprigs in the centre of the Liner. When you unpack the Pink Winged stick insects (Sipyloidea sipylus), look at where they are resting. If the stick insects are on the foliage, it's easiest just to place this foliage (with the stick insects on it) on the Liner. If the stick insects are resting on the packaging, you can cut around that and place it on the Liner. Either way, you don't have to handle the stick insects yet if you don't want to. Sometimes the Pink Winged stick insects are very lively and will walk out of the packaging as soon as you open it up. If this happens you can let the stick insect walk onto your hand and then place your hand inside the ELC cage near the bramble, blow gently on the stick insect, and she should walk onto the bramble. It helps if you lightly mist the bramble with water beforehand because stick insects are usually thirsty after a journey. We are looking to get New Guinea stick insects as have had Indian stick insects before. Do they eat ivy like Indian stick insects? New Guinea stick insects (Eurycantha calcarata) need to eat bramble (blackberry) leaves. They do not eat ivy. Indian stick insects (Carausius morosus) also do best on bramble (blackberry) leaves, but sometimes ivy can be given to Indian stick insects, but only as a last resort. There has been so much rain in the UK in recent months that there is plenty of green bramble (blackberry) leaves to be found, the best places to look are in sheltered overgrown areas such as woods or disused railway lines. New Guinea stick insects drink a lot more water than most stick insects, and so it's essential to provide them with a shallow water dish. Being such large chunky stick insects they rely on getting a good grip with their claws for climbing and so do well in the ELC cage because they can hook their claws around the specially sized holes in the white mesh sides. It's my dream to have these wonderful stick insects in my collection. I don't know about the import process from UK to here in the USA. Do you know anything about it? I would be more then willing to purchase any permits and import papers I needed to buy from you. The US Dept of Agriculture prohibits the import of non-native stick insects and so it is not an option for you to import them. I suggest you source some native American stick insects but make sure you avoid the dangerous Florida species (Anisomorpha buprestoides) because they can cause temporary blindness in people and pets! I’ve seen that it might snow in the next few days and was wondering if this would affect the quality of the bramble. They don’t eat anything else - will it be okay once the snow has melted? Bramble can cope with snow in the UK. Just brush off the snow before feeding it to your stick insects otherwise your cage will get very wet. The quality of the bramble is not adversely affected. Do you have any tips for wrangling first instar nymphs? I currently have five tiny pink winged stick insects and I'm terrified to open the cage for more than just a spray as they immediately try and climb out and they're so fast!. Even during the day if I try and take the bramble out they are very mobile and I'm also afraid of missing one and it being hidden in the old leaves as they're so easy to miss but I know I need to get the old leaves out as I add new ones or the cage will get too full and they also need cleaning out. Baby Pink Winged stick insects (Sipyloidea sipylus), also called first instar nymphs, are relatively large at 4.3cm long. They are bright green and usually rest under the lid of the ELC cage, rather than on the bramble leaves. Every day when you mist the leaves in the ELC cage with water, you can spray the water horizontally, holding the mister outside the cage, and directing the water spray through the white mesh side and onto the leaves. That way you don't disturb the stick insects under the roof. Once a week, when you remove the Sprig Pot of bramble, there shouldn't be any baby stick insects on it (because they're under the lid). But if there are any, just blow them off into a washing up bowl and cover this with a tea towel whilst you insert the fresh Sprig Pot of bramble. Gently blow the stick insects off the tea towel into the ELC cage before putting the lid back on the ELC cage. Our one Indian stick insect was, I think, so cold in our kitchen, which went down to 13°C, that she seemed to be dead (for quite a while) so we put her in the bin. But - a Christmas miracle! - I went to put something in the bin and there she was, at the top, waving her antennae at me indignantly! She may have warmed up enough to enjoy something in the bin. Family delighted to have her back. Anyway, I want to ask if she’s okay eating ivy - especially at this time of year when bramble is scarce? Indian stick insects (Carausius morosus) are robust stick insects and can easily tolerate 13°C. Indeed our breeding facility is set to 12°C - 14°C at night. Of course Indian stick insects prefer a warmer temperature during the day, and between 18°C - 21°C is ideal. Stick insects are less active in cool surroundings, but I am pleased you have rescued yours from the bin! Indian stick insects do best on bramble (blackberry) leaves, this is available all year in the UK in sheltered areas. Ivy can be eaten by some individuals but should only be used as a last resort. So it would be much better if you could find some nice bramble, so try looking in wooded areas, canal embankments, disused railway lines and overgrown areas by laybys. What is the correct format when referencing a stick insect species? I know it's two words, but should each word start with a capital letter or not? And when should italics and brackets be used?; Here are the standard rules: Yes, there are two words, but only the first word should start with an upper case letter, the second word must be all lower case. For example, Carausius morosus and Eurycantha calcarata. Both words should be italicised. Brackets (or parentheses) should be put around these italicised words. The common name of the stick insect (usually its native country of origin) should be included before the Latin species name. Here are a couple of perfect examples: Indian stick insect (Carausius morosus) and New Guinea stick insect (Eurycantha calcarata). What should be the minimum height of a stick insect enclosure? I've got one that is 18cm x 11cm, would this be OK for just one Indian stick insect? A stick insect enclosure that is only 18cm x 11cm is too small to house a stick insect. You need a much larger enclosure, for example the recommended ELC stick insect cage is 51cm (height) x 36.5cm (width) x 27.5cm (depth). Stick insects housed in stuffy cramped surroundings don't have enough space to grow properly and can suffer from fungal infections from stagnant air, causing their leg joints to turn black. Stick insects like the company of their own kind and so instead of just keeping one Indian stick insect (Carausius morosus) by herself, it is much kinder to have a small group of four or more Indian stick insects in the ELC cage. Indian stick insects like to group together on the white mesh sides of the ELC cage, so they are really easy to see. Are there seasons for stick insects? Or are they available all the time? It depends on the species. Many stick insects, including the popular Indian stick insect (Carausius morosus), Pink Winged stick insect (Sipyloidea sipylus) and Thailand stick insect (Baculum thaii) breed continuously and so are available from Small-Life Supplies throughout the year. But a few species including the Australian Macleays Spectre (Extatosoma tiaratum) do much better in the summer when it is hotter and sunnier, and so it's best to purchase this species in the summer when these individuals are strong, healthy and available. How much water do stick insects need? Most stick insects need the bramble (blackberry) leaves lightly misting with water once a day, preferably in the late afternoon or early evening. Avoid getting the actual stick insects wet, so it's important to direct the fine water spray only at the leaves. If the stick insects are in a school or office that is closed during weekends, the stick insects soon adapt to not having a drink over the weekend and are able to cope with this. How old can a stick insect become? Most stick insects live for one year, they take five months to mature and then lay eggs most days for the next seven months. An exceptionally long lived species of stick insect is the Malaysian stick insect (Heteropteryx dilatata) which has a three year lifespan. Male and female stick insects have similar lifespans. How high should a stick insect enclosure be? 48cm (18") to 51cm (20") is the best height for a stick insect enclosure. This is because stick insects need a tall cage to give them plenty of room to grow properly (stick insects grow by sliding vertically downwards out of their old skins every few weeks). This process of skin-shedding is called ecdysis. The best stick insect enclosure is the ELC cage which is 51cm (20") high. I made a temporary stick insect house using some vintage net curtain. I've been ever so careful putting in the bramble after the thorns snagged the net on the first day. But big holes are now appearing in the net, do you think it is possible that the stick insects could have eaten it? They are the Thailand type. If so, will they be OK? Net curtain for ventilation is OK short-term but not recommended long-term for stick insect housing because of the two reasons you mention. Thailand stick insects (Baculum thaii) usually eat during the night and so that it is when they are nibbling the net curtain, creating the holes. Despite having plenty of bramble (blackberry) leaves to eat, stick insects do sometimes eat other items, such as net curtain and paper. Fortunately it doesn't do them any harm. Moving forward, it's best to house stick insects in the ELC cage because they cannot eat any of its components and so the ELC cage will last for many years. I've asked for money this Christmas because I have a wish-list of things to buy for my pet stick insects. Will I be able to order from Small-Life Supplies between Christmas and New Year? Yes, phone calls and emails will be answered by Small-Life Supplies on Monday 29th, Tuesday 30th and Wednesday 31st December 2025. The orders will be processed and deliveries scheduled for Wednesday 7th January 2026 onwards. This allows time for the couriers to clear their backlogs of Christmas parcels and resume the next day delivery service across the UK. My Indian stick insect matured 2 weeks ago and feels firm. Her abdomen is plump and she looks like a fully developed adult (she was in stick mode so wouldn’t let me take a good picture). When can I expect her to start laying eggs? Congratulations, your photo shows a nice healthy adult Indian stick insect (Carausius morosus). Her abdomen is plump because it is filling up with eggs. She will start to lay any day now, on average three eggs a day. It's best to wait a few weeks before saving some eggs because the first ones produced are not of the best quality. The eggs typically take four months to develop. The eggs need no attention during this time, so just store the eggs in the clear HAP pot and when hatching is due, check the HAP in the morning (because the eggs hatch at night). Don't keep too many eggs, so dispose of surplus eggs by putting them in a dish and adding hot water, this is very fast and 100% effective. Don't be tempted to put stick insect eggs in the freezer because all this does is temporarily arrest their development and when the eggs are taken out of the freezer and warm up inside, development can restart. How often should I mist my stick insects? I have been misting the leaves once in the evening, but have noticed that my Green Beans seem extra thirsty? Do they drink more than the Pink Winged and Indian stick insects? I have them all housed together in an ELC cage but the Green Beans rush to the water when I spray? Most stick insects appreciate a daily drink, so lightly spray the bramble leaves once a day, in the afternoon or evening. Avoid getting the actual stick insects wet, so direct the fine mist towards the top of the leaves. It's best to use a sprayer with an adjustable nozzle pre-set to emit a fine mist rather than a strong jet of water. This frequency is ideal for many species, including the Indian stick insects (Carausius morosus) and Pink Winged stick insects (Sipyloidea sipylus). A few species require more water, these include; the New Guinea stick insects (Eurycantha calcarata), Malaysian stick insects (Heteropteryx dilatata) and Grenadan Green Bean stick insects (Diapherodes gigantea). So a shallow dish, filled 0.5cm deep with cold tap water is recommended. The stick insects can drink from this water dish either outside the cage or inside the ELC cage (obviously don't put in the cage if there are babies in there because an open water dish is a drowning risk for very small stick insects). Do the winged ones fly ? Yes, Pink Winged stick insects (Sipyloidea sipylus) like to fly about once a week when they are fully grown . So you take them out of the cage and let them fly across the room and land on the wall. They fly relatively slowly and so there's no danger of losing them! More flying tips , including when you know she's about to take off are in the "Keeping Stick Insects" book by Dorothy Floyd. On 13th Nov 2025 I saw a near perfect Peacock butterfly in my garden (South Yorkshire) sunning itself on a tree trunk, on what was an unseasonably warm November day. My guess is that the well above normal average temperature triggered this individual into coming out of hibernation. Once a butterfly has woken from its hibernation, can it re-hibernate if it's been caught out, as I suspect the Peacock was? Or is it doomed to die? Some British butterflies, including the Peacock butterfly (Inachis io) and the Small tortoiseshell (Aglais urticae) hibernate as adult butterflies throughout the British winter. They always select a sheltered place, this can be outdoors or indoors in outbuildings such as sheds. During sunny days, the body temperature of the butterfly rises and so it temporarily wakes up from hibernation and has a fly around and usually has a drink of water too. It then flies back to a sheltered place (this can be different from where it started) and hibernates again. It can repeat this process several times over the coming months, depending on the weather. So there is no need to worry about the Peacock butterfly you saw because this is normal behaviour. My Indian stick insect hatched in mid-late August and has just had her sixth moult. She wouldn’t let me take a photo, but her armpits are red now. Does that mean she has become an adult? Like all insects, Indian stick insects grow by shedding their skins at intervals, this process is called ecdysis. Indian stick insects shed their skins six times in five months on average but can grow faster if they are in hotter surroundings. Fully grown Indian stick insects (Carausius morosus) always have red tops to their front legs. The total length of an adult Indian stick insect is 11cm (but often individuals that have matured in less than five months are smaller). So based on the fact that your Indian stick insect has red armpits and has completed six skin changes, she will be an adult. During the next couple of weeks you can look forward to seeing her abdomen plump out as she starts to produce eggs. She will lay eggs every day for the next seven months of her life and so it is important to only save a few eggs. Indian stick insect eggs usually hatch four months later but this incubation time is a few weeks shorter if the surroundings are hotter than 18 °C during the day and 12 °C at night. Our son is insect mad and wants a stick insect. Would an Indian stick insect be good for a 10 year old boy? Yes, Indian stick insects (Carausius morosus) are great pets for a ten year old. Your son can enjoy handling them and caring for them. Instead of getting just one stick insect, it is always better to buy a few stick insects, this is because they like to group together with their own kind. You can purchase a pack of four young adult Indian stick insects from Small-Life Supplies, these are approximately 11cm long and so are a good size to be handled safely. Indian stick insects do best in a tall enclosure which has two fully ventilated sides, so the ELC cage is the best enclosure for Indian stick insects. I am definitely interested in an adult pair of Eurycantha calcarata. As arboreal animals, I intend to house them in a vertically oriented enclosure. I will use a low wattage spot lamp, controlled with a ‘dimmer’ thermostat run on a timer switch for heat and to define photoperiod. The enclosure hot spot and cooler area will be monitored with two different digital thermometers. It is not recommended to use spot lamps on a stick insect enclosure because they dry out the foliage too much. New Guinea stick insects (Eurycantha calcarata) are an easy type to keep and do not need a temperature gradient in the cage. Ambient temperature is fine for them and so that is why they do so well in homes and schools in the UK, these are on average 18-21°C during the day and 12-14°C at night. The key factors to get right are the ventilation in the enclosure (two full mesh sides are ideal providing natural cross-flow ventilation) and suitable climbing surfaces. That is why the ELC cage is ideal for small populations of New Guinea stick insects because the hole size in the thick mesh panels is the correct size for their claws to grip around. If you house New Guinea stick insects in a cage with very fine mesh, their claws can get trapped and snap off as the stick insect tries to free it's feet. You are correct in choosing an arboreal enclosure because stick insects need to be kept in tall cages, and that is why the ELC stick insect cage is 51cm high. Can a stick insect grow back a missing part of an antenna? I picked up a pair of Malaysian Jungle Nymph stick insects (see photo attached) from an event and they've only got one and a half antennae each, I'm feeling short changed as they were pricey. Malaysian stick insects (Heteropteryx dilatata) are a premium species and so are more pricey than other species. But if they are badly damaged, like yours are, I would have expected them to be heavily discounted in price. This is because the missing antennae will not grow back. It is unusual for this species to have broken antennae, and so I suspect the seller has not been looking after them well which is why they have been fighting and got hurt. Only stressed stick insects fight, causes of stress include insufficient food, lack of water, overcrowding, unsuitable housing (wrong size and/or incorrect ventilation). One of my stick insects is on the loose! I had all three out on the settee last night but I got distracted and when I went back I could only find two! They are Indian stick insects, fully grown ones with the red armpits. Will she be OK? How long can she survive? It's a very small room so I'm hopeful she'll turn up. I think I'll call her Dora the Explorer ! Indian stick insects (Carausius morosus) are most active at night when it is dark. They usually head upwards so the best places to look in the morning are the tops of the walls, the curtain rail or tops of the blinds. They also seek out water and so try looking around the window frame or if you have a sink in the room, look there. If you can't find her the next day, try looking again every morning for the next few days, she will continue to move around at night but obviously less so as she gets weaker. If you haven't found her after two days, leave a large jar of wet bramble springs by a wall because this will attract her. Do you have any more ex display stick insect enclosures available please? Yes, one has just been listed on our clearance page. Please note that these used stick insect enclosures are really good value for money and that is why they usually sell very quickly. It's best to phone Small-Life Supplies on 01733 913480 to check availability or you can visit the "clearance page" on this website. My granddaughter would like a stick insect egg hatching kit for Christmas. I've asked her if she wouldn't prefer to have the actual stick insects instead but no, she is adamant that she wants to hatch out some eggs! So my question is can you supply such a kit? And if so, how long would she need to wait before the eggs started hatching? Yes, Small-Life Supplies supply the "Stick Insect Eggs Hatching Kit", this is a popular festive item and will be listed on the website very soon. Indian stick insect eggs (Carausius morosus) usually incubate for four months, but the eggs included in our kit were laid in late August/early September 2025 and so are due to hatch just after Christmas. Indian stick insect eggs usually hatch during the night and so your granddaughter won't see the hatching process but she will enjoy the surprise of seeing 2cm long baby stick insects in the morning! The kit includes the HAP container which also serves as a good home for the baby stick insects for the first few weeks of their lives. The Indian stick insects should then be transferred to the ELC cage which provides the larger and more airy surroundings that Indian stick insects require as they grow. So, we're getting some Indian stick insects and are debating amongst ourselves which would be the best enclosure. The ELC cage looks good, but as we're only getting four Indian stick insects, I am wondering if we could get away with using a smaller enclosure, I have seen some that are 30cm high? Or would that be too small for them? It doesn't matter whether you buy two Indian stick insects or twenty Indian stick insects, they all need to be housed in a cage with enough space for them to move around and be content. So the stick insect cage needs to be at least 48cm high. Cramming them into a 30cm high enclosure is not recommended because it is way too small. The ELC cage is 51cm high and has been specially designed for housing stick insects properly. If your interest develops, you can add another species of stick insect to the same enclosure later to live together with your Indian stick insects (Carausius morosus). Suitable species that can live with Indian stick insects include the Pink Winged stick insects (Sipyloidea sipylus) and the Thailand stick insects (Baculum thaii). Can you send stick insects to Surrey next week? Or is is too cold? The weather forecast is for milder nights next week and so yes, deliveries are being arranged for next week across the UK, including Surrey. Small-Life Supplies prioritise the welfare of the stick insects and can only send them if it is warm enough to do so, which means that no stick insects are dispatched if a freezing night is forecast. We monitor the weather forecast daily and let you know in advance what day delivery will be. When the stick insects are on their way, the delivery tracking details are emailed to you, so you can see what time delivery will be (within a two hour delivery window). What eats stick insects? In nature, stick insects are primarily eaten by birds and wasps. In captivity, some people feed damaged stick insects to a pet praying mantis. A praying mantis can eat an insect much larger than itself but should only be given harmless stick insects as food, such as the Pink Winged stick insect (Sipyloidea sipylus) and the Thailand stick insect (Baculum thaii). My beloved stick insect, Ariana Grenada, had a fall and has broken off her ovipositor. She has one more shed to go, so I expect her to be fully grown in a few weeks. My question is will she grow her ovipositor back in time? And is this is even possible? Her last name is Grenada because that's where her ancestors are from. The species is Diapherodes gigantea. It is a shame when a stick insect has a bad fall and damages itself. Usually a stick insect can land on its feet and is OK, but occasionally they land awkwardly and can bang their head or snap off the ovipositor, as has happened with Ariana Grenada. Ovipositors can not be regenerated. However, a female stick insect can still push out an egg without an ovipositor, she will just have more difficulty in burying it. But burying the eggs is not essential, indeed some adult female stick insects with perfect ovipositors can't be bothered to bury their eggs and just leave them on the surface of the sand pit, or on the ELC cage Liner. I've decided to go for a Christmas split delivery - I think it'll be much less stressful, for the stick insects, and me, if they arrive after the holidays! When the Indian stick insects follow can they come with a bag of food - I've got privet but it sounds like they've gone off that! Yes, our Christmas Split Delivery is a very popular option and enables people to have the ELC stick insect cage bundle ready and waiting for the stick insects to follow, after the festivities have quietened down. For many years privet was the staple diet for Indian stick insects (Carausius morosus) but around the turn of this century, many Indian stick insects in the UK suddenly refused to eat privet and switched to eating bramble (blackberry) leaves instead. Of course there will always be some individuals that can still eat privet, but the vast majority no longer find privet palatable, and so that is why we feed all our Indian stick insects with bramble (blackberry) leaves and recommend others to do the same. Fortunately we have lots of nice green bramble leaves available and so sell wallets of Fresh Cut Bramble all year round. I'm a newbie keeping stick insects, please tell me if I should be cutting off the bramble thorns? No, don't waste your time snipping off sharp thorns! The stick insects are perfectly capable of walking up the bramble stems without being cut by the thorns. The only time thorns can be an issue is if a winged stick insect flashes its wings in the cage and snags an open wing on a thorn. However this scenario is easily prevented by just having one Sprig Pot with two bramble sprigs in the centre of the ELC cage Liner, thereby leaving plenty of space away from the bramble for the stick insect to flash its wings open. The stick insects usually rest on the white mesh sides of the ELC cage because they can get a good grip with their claws around the specially made holes which are the optimal size for a stick insect's claw. Genuinely shocked at the range of stick insects for sale - I thought there was only one type! I have since discovered the one I know is the "Indian" stick insect, so really glad to see you're breeding these. I remember my grandad having these many years ago and I helped to clean them out on Sundays. Anyways, I'd like to purchase the Indian stick insects and full set up for my niece, how do I do this - do you email the payment link? It's great that you have fond memories of helping your grandad look after his stick insects and that your niece will now be able to enjoy caring for her own pet stick insects too. And yes, the Indian stick insect (Carausius morosus) has always been the "standard" stick insect and remains the most popular and easy to keep stick insect to this day. Ordering from Small-Life Supplies is easy and secure, and if you'd like to pay by PayPal, the payment link will be emailed to you. Or you can talk to a human by phoning Small-Life Supplies on 01733 913480 and pay securely by credit/debit/AMEX card, all sensitive details are destroyed after order completion, in accordance with us being legally fully "Payment Card Industry Data Security Standard" compliant. We learnt by watching your YouTube channel that Macleays Spectre stick insects can eat Red Robin leaves. We have several of these in our garden. But we've always gathered bramble for our Macleays Spectre stick insects, would it do them any harm if we were to put some Red Robin leaves in the cage too? I'd feel terrible if any harm came to them, they are part of the family. There's no harm at all in adding a sprig of Red Robin (Photinia) in the same Sprig Pot that hold the sprigs of bramble (blackberry) leaves. It doesn't matter that your stick insects have never eaten Red Robin leaves before, so let them try some and see if they like it. In my experience, most Macleays Spectre stick insects (Extatosoma tiaratum) will eat both bramble and Red Robin. Obviously it's important that there is plenty of bramble in the ELC cage just in case some of your stick insects are particularly fussy and are not tempted by the Red Robin! I'd like to upgrade the enclosure for my praying mantis, it's a Hierodula species, recently matured. Would the ELC cage be OK or is there a better enclosure for a praying mantis? The MOOD cage is the best enclosure for a praying mantis. This is because it has a net sleeve access designed so that living flies can easily and securely inserted into the cage. The MOOD cage has a black frame and heavy duty fabric mesh, with small holes that small insects can walk across but not escape. The MOOD cage is supplied ready assembled nationwide UK and is manufactured in the UK by Small-Life Supplies. My Indian nymphs (born mid-late August) are almost 7cm long including outstretched legs. They are all in fifth instar. Is this a normal size for their age and stage of development? The photo you attached shows a nice healthy Indian stick insect (Carausius morosus) with a total body length of 7cm, so this is good news. When the Indian stick insects are seventh instar they are adults and have an average total length of 11cm. Genetics, quality of food, temperature, population size and housing design are all factors that affect the final length of an Indian stick insect. An easy way to assess the health of a Indian stick insect is to look at her posture and how she walks, this is explained in the Small-Life Supplies YouTube video, Healthy stick insects look like this, video # 011. I'm researching where to buy a good stick insect enclosure and came across your site. Would the ELC cage be suitable for a few Macleays Spectre stick insects? And if so, is it better to get males or females or a mixture? The ELC cage is a great stick insect enclosure and can easily accommodate one or two pairs of Australian Macleays Spectre stick insects (Extatosoma tiaratum). This species naturally has an equal ratio of males to females, and so it's best to mimic nature and buy an equal number of each gender. The adult stick insects mate regularly throughout their adult lives. The adult males like to fly across a room about once a week and so should be taken out of the ELC cage weekly so they can do this. My uni lecturer has said there's so much nonsense on-line regarding stick insect reproduction. She has asked for three examples of silly advice about stick insects, so I'd really appreciate your suggestions, preferably listing the three silliest! 1). The blue/green jelly like substance that is sometimes seen when an adult male stick insect copulates with an adult female is, of course, the male genitalia. But uninformed people declare it is blood or a prolapse! 2). The accompanying white (or pale pink) ball of sperm that the male attaches externally to the body of the female is called a spermatophore. Yet misguided people insist it is an egg! 3). This spermatophore stays attached to the female for a few days and sperm is slowly released during this time to fertilise the eggs that the female is producing that week. Mating occurs every few weeks and so the female keeps receiving new spermatophores to fertilise her eggs which she produces continuously throughout her adult life (of seven+ months, depending on the species). Yet despite this knowledge and evidence, a few lay people persist in perpetuating the myth that one mating episode means the female is fertilised for life! Please can you tell me what on earth L1 and L2 means? I have a small Indian stick insect (see photo attached) and reached out for some help online and was asked if my stick insect was an L1 or an L2? Don't worry, you are not at fault here, instead the person asking this question is showing their ignorance! This is because the L1, L2 , L3 etc system applies to insects which have larval stages, the "L" stands for larva. So a newly hatched caterpillar is at larval stage one, which is L1. When the caterpillar sheds its skin it is at larval stage two, L2. Of course none of this applies to stick insects because stick insects are never larvae, this term is restricted to insects which have a complete metamorphosis. Stick insects have an incomplete metamorphosis and the stages the young nymphs grow through are called instars. So a baby stick insect is called a first instar nymph. When she sheds her skin for the first time she becomes a second instar nymph. The photograph of your small Indian stick insect (Carausius morosus) shows a baby stick insect that is about one week old, so she is without a doubt a "first instar nymph". Of course some people pretend that "L" stands for "level" but this assumption is not scientifically correct. What are the enclosure requirements for Indian stick insects? And do stick insects need a damp substrate in the stick insect enclosure? A stick insect enclosure should have a height of 51cm (20 inches) because stick insects need a tall cage to grow properly. Stick insects grow by sliding downwards out of their exoskeletons and need a tall cage so they can complete this ecdysis successfully. The stick insect cage also needs to have two mesh sides so that it is well ventilated. The ELC cage is the best enclosure for housing Indian stick insects (Carausius morosus) and other popular species of stick insect. A damp substrate is not recommended because this will cause mould and smells. Instead use paper sheets to line the floor of the ELC cage, you can purchase ELC Liners for this purpose. Would it be mean to just have one stick insect? I'm trying to decide between Indian stick insects and Pink Winged stick insects, do the Pink Winged stick insects fly much and how long can I handle them every day? Yes, stick insects like to be with other stick insects of their own kind, and so it's best to keep a small group of stick insects in the ELC cage rather than just one stick insect on her own. There is plenty of room in the ELC cage to house four Indian stick insects (Carausius morosus) and two Pink Winged stick insects (Sipyloidea sipylus). Both types of stick insect eat bramble (blackberry) leaves. You can handle your stick insects for a few minutes every day, ideally at a set time so that they get used to a routine. Some Pink Winged stick insects are keener to fly than others, but in general most Pink Winged stick insect adults like to fly about once a week, covering a distance of a few metres from your hand to the wall. In a typical Indian stick insect batch, what proportion are expected to reach adulthood? I had 9 but lost 2 at different times due to growth issues. They’re all 2 months old and from my new batch. If you have a healthy strain of Indian stick insects (Carausius morosus) and are keeping them in the correct conditions, on average you can expect a success rate of more than 90% to adulthood. To give them the best start in life, house the newly hatched Indian stick insects in an unventilated clear container such as the HAP and feed them with a wet bramble leaf daily. After a month or so the Indian stick insects prefer larger surroundings that are more airy and so it is at that stage they should be transferred to the purpose designed ELC cage. Your stick insects are two months old and so hopefully will now be enjoying their larger spacious surroundings. You can now feed them weekly by standing cut stems of bramble (blackberry) leaves in the Sprig Pot of cold tap water. Mist these leaves lightly with cold tap water in the late afternoon/early evening so the stick insects can drink from the water droplets on the leaves. My friend recommended I buy stick insects from Small-Life Supplies because the ones she received had all their legs and are healthy. She purchased Indian stick insects, but I want something a bit more exotic - do you think I'd be OK with keeping the New Guinea stick insects? I'm 26 so not a young kid! The New Guinea stick insects look really cool, obviously I'd get the ELC enclosure as well. My home is heated with an air source heat pump and so is 18°C at night (and 21°C during the day). Will 18°C at night be too hot for New Guinea stick insects or will they be OK at that temperature? New Guinea stick insects (Eurycantha calcarata) are very impressive looking chunky stick insects. The adult males are a glossy dark brown and the adult females usually a lighter shade of brown. These stick insects like lots of exercise and so are ideal for people who have time to spend with their pets. New Guinea stick insects don't mind warmer temperatures so will be fine in a room that is 18 - 21°C during the day and 18°C at night. I am sure you will enjoy looking after these amazing creatures! (Most species of stick insects are fine at a night time room temperature of 14°C, so do well in homes and schools that are not especially hot at night). My neighbour has a huge eucalyptus tree which overhangs our garden. I 've never had an issue with that, and now I'm thinking great, I've got a ready supply of eucalyptus leaves! So I'd like to start off with something easy that eats eucalyptus leaves and "Green Bean stick insects" seem to fit the bill. Do you recommend this type (I couldn't see them on this website)? And how many Green Bean stick insects would you recommend for an ELC cage? Yes, the Green Bean stick insect (Diapherodes gigantea) from Grenada is a robust stick insect that has very bright green wingless females and brown winged males. The adult females are 18cm long and quite chunky, so it's best to only keep two pairs in the ELC cage so they are not cramped. They eat eucalyptus leaves and so it's fantastic that you have a ready supply of this! Small-Life Supplies breeds Green Bean stick insects but have sold out of medium-sized nymphs at the moment which is why they are not currently listed on the website. Please tell me what stick insects eat? Is it best to stick to bramble leaves? Most stick insects eat bramble (blackberry) leaves but there are a few species of stick insect that do not and need to eat another type of leaf. These include: the Peruvian Fern stick insect (Oreophoetes peruana) which must eat Male fern leaves, the Peruvian Black Beauty stick insect (Peruphasma schultei) which must eat privet leaves and the Javanese stick insect (Orxines macklottii) which must eat rhododendron leaves. Are stick insects for sale all year? Is it too early to reserve stick insects for Christmas? Yes, stick insects breed all year round and so Small-Life Supplies have stick insects for sale all year. Lots of people get stick insects for Christmas and you have the choice of receiving everything in December, or receiving the ELC stick insect cage in December and the actual living stick insects in January. Either way, yes you can order now and request "Christmas delivery". How much do stick insects eat? I'm thinking about getting four Indian stick insects and an ELC cage for them. Stick insects eat far less than some other insects such as caterpillars and locusts. Stick insects usually eat at night (when it is dark) but occasionally they can also have a nibble during the day. Stick insects do like to see a generous amount of leaves in the ELC cage, so two long sprigs of green bramble leaves is perfect for one week's supply for an ELC cage housing four Indian stick insects (Carausius morosus). These sprigs should be about 40cm long with the thickest cut end stood in the Sprig Pot of cold tap water, because this will keep the leaves fresh for 7-10 days. Stick insects eat a lot more when it is very hot and so it's best to keep the room temperature around 18 -21 °C during the day and drop it to 12-14 °C at night. Can you recommend an affordable book about stick insects which includes photographs of stick insect eggs from the different species, showing the relative sizes? In the middle of the "Keeping Stick Insects" book by Dorothy Floyd there is a close-up colour photo of seven stick insect eggs from seven different species. The eggs are side by side so you can see how the size and shape and colour varies across the different species. This photograph includes an egg from the popular types including the Indian stick insect (Carausius morosus), Australian Macleays Spectre stick insect (Extatosoma tiaratum), Pink Winged stick insect (Sipyloidea sipylus), Thailand stick insect (Baculum thaii) and New Guinea stick insect (Eurycantha calcarata). And handy tips and accurate information about these different species are contained in Chapter 4 "Stick insects that are easy to keep". This "Keeping Stick Insects" book by Dorothy Floyd is affordable, the price is £12 + delivery, and new copies are available from small-life.co.uk, numonday.com and ebay.co.uk This Indian stick insect (see photo attached) from the genetically compromised batch shed last week (after 7 weeks) and has since got a crease/dent on her abdomen. She also hasn’t hardened up and doesn’t look like she will. How long can she live in this state? She is still active - though her same-age sister has just died. Unhealthy stick insects such as this one die prematurely and so she is unlikely to survive more than a week or two. When a poorly stick insect decides to die, she stops eating, but still drinks, so the kindest thing you can do is to rest her mouth on a wet bramble (blackberry) leaf so she can drink from the water droplets on the leaf. Many dying animals appreciate extra water during their final days and stick insects are no exception. Ava-Leaf, our stick insect, has had a moult overnight and lost her back foot in the process. Is this common? And will she regrow her foot in the next moult? It's not common for a stick insect to lose a foot during a skin-change (ecdysis) but it sometimes happens, as you have observed. Sometimes a stick insect just makes a mess of their skin-change and can lose a leg or antenna or foot, but fortunately this does not happen very often. If a leg has been lost, a new miniature leg is regenerated at the next skin-change. If an antenna is lost, a miniature foot is regenerated on the head of the stick insect at the next skin-change (because antennae can't be regrown). Feet cannot be regenerated properly, so Ava-Leaf will now only ever have five feet, but this should not impact on her quality of life, particularly as it is a back foot that is missing (the front feet are more useful because they steady the leaf during eating). What's the best enclosure for baby stick insects, specifically Indian stick insects? Baby Indian stick insects prefer less-ventilated surroundings and do best in the HAP which is a clear unventilated enclosure 13cm tall. Every day put a wet bramble leaf into the HAP so the stick insects can drink from the water droplets on the leaf. As the Indian stick insects (Carausius morosus) grow, they require more space and more airy surroundings, so transfer the Indian stick insects to the 51cm tall ELC cage after a few weeks. The ELC cage has two opposite mesh sides which provide natural cross-flow ventilation that is perfect for the growing Indian stick insects and adults. This Indian stick insect now has a small amount of turquoise jelly around her tail end. What might this be? She wouldn’t stay still for a better picture. The turquoise jelly is the male genitalia. If it is permanently visible, you have a "gynandromorph" stick insect, which means it is a female stick insect with some male characteristics on show. I can see from the photo that this stick insect is a gynandromorph Indian stick insect (Carausius morosus). Such individuals are not very healthy and so do not live as long as the standard females. The occurrence of gynandromorph Indian stick insects is not common, but nowhere near as rare as the occurrence of the true male Indian stick insects which have a 0.01% probability of occurring, which is 1 in every 10 000 females. The genitalia in the true males is only seen when the stick insect is mating with a female. I heard there are some stick insects living wild in Cornwall, is that true? And, if so, how did they get there? Yes, a couple of species of New Zealand stick insect have established populations in the wild in Cornwall and other areas in South West UK. They are the slightly spiky Acanthoxyla prasina species and the smoother looking Acanthoxyla inermis species, the latter is sometimes called the "unarmed stick insect". These are parthenogenetic stick insects and there are two colour forms; green and brown. These stick insects came to the South West of the UK on cargo ships back in the early 1900s and have remained in that area ever since. They have not migrated north. Every year, people contact me with sightings of these attractive stick insects that they have just noticed in their garden (or on the side of their house as winter approaches and the adult stick insects are seeking warmth). The ELC cage is a good height, right? I've been doing my research and would like to just check that I need a stick insect enclosure more than 48cm high so my Indian stick insects will be happy. Yes, the ELC stick insect cage is 51cm high, which is a really good height because it is nice and tall to give stick insects plenty of room to grow properly. Stick insects grow by sliding downwards out of their old skins, and so need a tall cage, at least 48cm high, so they have plenty of room to do this moulting (ecdysis) properly. Indian stick insects (Carausius morosus) do really well in the ELC cage, because as well as being the correct height it is also optimally ventilated (with two full mesh sides opposite each other, allowing for natural air-flow). I'm getting Pink Winged stick insects and the ELC stick insects cage. I know they eat bramble leaves, but do I need to snip off the prickles? All stick insects, including the Pink Winged stick insects (Sipyloidea sipylus) step around the bramble thorns and so no, don't waste your time in snipping these off. When your Pink Winged stick insects are adults, they will have large pink wings. Occasionally they flash these open for a few seconds in the ELC cage, and so it's important that the cage is not stuffed full of foliage which can snag their open wings. So just put one Sprig Pot containing two or three stems bramble (approx 40cm long) in the middle of the Liner on the floor of the cage, this allows plenty of free space near the cage sides. Most of the time the Pink Winged stick insects will be resting on the white mesh sides of the cage, and so if you follow this advice they can flash their wings with ease. It's best to take them out of the cage once a week for a short fly across the room. More details of how to do this are in the book "Keeping Stick Insects" by Dorothy Floyd. Will Small-Life Supplies be at any insect fairs in the South East this year? I desperately need another ELC cage for my growing collection of stick insects and I enjoyed meeting you guys at the Kempton show, but that was many years ago now and I haven't been since. No, Small-Life Supplies isn't exhibiting at the Kempton show or the other smaller events (these are mainly spider focussed). Our products are bulky and it's easier for customers to have the ELC cages delivered to their home rather than pick one up at a show and cart it around the hall. Our special offers are on our website "clearance page", so I recommend you check that regularly because sometimes a lightly used ELC cage is listed at a bargain price! Our new stick insects arrived this morning, thank you so much, they weren't scared at all and crawled onto my hands straight away! They are four Indian stick insect adults and my son and I are delighted. Please can you tell me what the long elongated leaves are that were sent with them? It's great that your Indian stick insects (Carausius morosus) are lively and are already confident in their new home. The Indian stick insects that are sent out by Small-Life Supplies are always packaged with plenty of food, which includes their favourite food of nice green bramble (blackberry) leaves, and also a long stem of eucalyptus , which has the long elongated leaves to which you refer. It's really important that you continue to feed your Indian stick insects with bramble (blackberry) leaves. You can also add hazel leaves, rose leaves and eucalyptus leaves if you wish, but these are not essential and most people feed their Indian stick insects solely on a diet of bramble (blackberry) leaves because this suits them the best. I'm a lab technician, just started at a new school and have been tasked with setting up the stick insect cage in the biology lab. It's an empty ELC stick insect cage and so I will need the Liners, Sprig Pot, Mister and a couple of species that would spark an interest in the boys (aged 12-16), what do you recommend? The feedback we have from secondary schools that keep stick insects is that it is the most lively stick insects that are the most popular. And so I'd recommend the Thailand stick insects (Baculum thaii) , these are supplied in pairs of males and females, and the adult males are particularly active! Thailand stick insects also have the advantage in having a very quick incubation time for the eggs, with the eggs hatching after 4-8 weeks. This is a lot faster than other species of stick insects where the incubation time is months. And adding four adult Indian stick insects (Carausius morosus) to the same cage housing the Thailand stick insects works well. The two species look completely different and the Indian stick insects move at a slower pace and have a "party trick" of clamping all their legs together and falling into a straight stick! School topic ideas are given in the "Keeping Stick Insects" book by Dorothy Floyd, which has whole sections on both these species. Thailand stick insects and Indian stick insects both eat bramble (blackberry) leaves which you gather from overgrown areas outside (or you can purchase wallets of Fresh Cut Bramble from Small-Life Supplies). What’s the best way to get rid of stick insect eggs in the UK please? I've saved some but don't want to save too many! Boiling water is the fastest way to stop stick insect eggs from developing and this method is 100% effective and humane. Most stick insect eggs take months to develop and so it's best to dispose of unwanted eggs soon after they have been laid. Tip the surplus eggs into a bowl, boil a kettle, pour the hot water over the eggs and let the mixture cool before throwing it away. Do stick insects need to be kept in an especially hot room? Would 18 degrees be OK? One big advantage of keeping stick insects is that they do not need extra heating (unless your room is very cold). Our commercial stick insects breeding area is set at a daytime temperature of 18°C and a nighttime temperature of 14°C. Many homes and schools in the UK are between 18-21 degrees Celsius during the day and that range is fine for keeping stick insects successfully. So, at 18°C your room is at a perfect daytime temperature and is very unlikely to get too cold at night. However, for the few people who are living in properties that are routinely below 18°C during the day and below 12°C at night, the best way of keeping the stick insects warm is to use a portable 500 Watt oil-filled radiator. Just plug this into a wall socket near the ELC cage of stick insects and benefit from the gentle warmth emitted safely, and at low-cost from this device. To purchase a 500W oil-filled radiator that plugs in, please visit buy 500W oil-filled radiator portable Is it true that New Guineas stick insects are ground dwelling? No. The reason why this myth is perpetuated is because New Guinea stick insects (Eurycantha calcarata) like to group together by piling on top of each other, and an obvious place to do this is on the floor of the stick insect cage underneath loose leaves (which they deliberately cut off the main stem). However, if you provide a hiding area at the top of the cage, the New Guinea stick insects will congregate there. Similarly if you create a hiding area on the side of the cage, that is where the New Guinea stick insects choose to rest, proving that it is the hiding area that they are seeking out, regardless of where it is. When you purchase New Guinea stick insects from Small-Life Supplies, you receive a resting tube which you can position wherever you like in the ELC cage. Most people place it on the ELC cage Liner, and of course the New Guinea stick insects will congregate inside it during the day. But this does not mean they are ground dwelling, and at night when it is dark, the New Guinea stick insects are very active and walk up and down the mesh sides of the ELC cage, hooking their large claws around the holes to get a good foothold for walking. I was just checking my Carausius morosus eggs and I saw a very tiny baby freeing her back end from her egg, which at that time was exactly where it was before the hatch began. The baby looked much smaller than the babies I’ve discovered before, and her legs looked long and spindly until she started to walk. Did I witness the end of the hatching process? The photo was taken just minutes after she became free, and she did not get stuck. Yes, you have been lucky enough to witness the end of the hatching process. The freshly emerged stick insect (called a first instar nymph) looks slightly comical because she is out of proportion for the first ten minutes or so of her life. So although her legs are the normal size, her body isn't and she needs to expand her thorax and abdomen quickly whilst her exoskeleton is still soft. Most Indian stick insects (Carausius morosus) hatch at night and so when people see the babies in the morning, they are all the correct size. Which creatures eat stick insects in their native habitat? Wasps are a main predator of stick insects. Birds also eat stick insects in the wild. I have felt nervous about having a mixed sex group of Sun Beetles in the ELC cage. How many eggs would I be dealing with with a mixed sex group, and how many beetles would I be ending up with? Would it become unmanageable? I have a space next to a radiator and window. Or there is another space that´s about ten feet from the window and radiator, which would be best? What´s the best and safest way to source the objects they need for hiding and climbing, like the twigs mentioned in the advice sheet you shared? Can these just be gathered? Your second suggested place would be best, so away from the window and radiator, because this minimises the chance of the beetles being exposed to extreme fluctuations in temperature. Place the ELC cage on a small table, rather than on the floor which would be too draughty. Adult Sun beetles (Pachnoda sp) usually rest on the white mesh sides of the ELC cage, but you can also add some buddleia twigs for extra decoration if you wish (these are available free from Small-Life Supplies when other items are purchased). The adult Sun beetles mate regularly throughout their lives and the females bury their shiny white eggs in the dish of damp soil. They don't lay huge numbers of eggs (tens rather than hundreds), not all the eggs hatch and not all the grubs survive, so you are very unlikely to be overrun. The eggs are really obvious and so if you don't want to try breeding any more, just spread the eggs out on kitchen roll and they will very quickly dry up inside and stop developing. (This is the same 100% effective technique recommended for controlling unwanted Giant African Land Snail eggs.) Any eggs you keep will take weeks to develop and the emerging grubs (that live in the soil) take months to grow, so it will be a while before you can enjoy seeing the next generation of adult yellow and black beetles emerge. Do Indian stick insect eggs need to be kept damp? No. The easiest way to incubate Indian stick insect eggs (Carausius morosus) is to store them in an unventilated clear container and just be patient. Hatching usually occurs after four months, but this can be reduced to three months during hot summers. One joy of keeping Indian stick insects is that their eggs are so easy to hatch and don't need any attention during the months of incubation. The best unventilated container to store the eggs is the clear HAP pot, these are specially made by Small-Life Supplies and are ideal for storing stick insect eggs and also housing the baby stick insects (called first instar nymphs) when they hatch. When the stick insect hatches out of the egg, she is thirsty and so it's important to give her a wet bramble (blackberry) leaf to drink off. Asking this on behalf of my friend as one of his Indian stick insects ate a chunk of his Calathea that had some plant fertiliser around a week ago, he’s worried that it may poison the stick insect. Photo attached. Calathea plants are also called the Prayer plant Maranta, and are OK for Indian stick insects (Carausius morosus) to eat. I can see from your photo that she has eaten a large chunk out of a leaf! Liquid plant fertiliser such as Baby Bio is a good fertiliser for houseplants and will not harm an insect that eats the leaves. So your friend does not need to be worried, because his stick insect will be fine. You could tell him that stick insect frass (the poo/droppings) contains nitrogen and is an excellent fertiliser for houseplants. Just pour the frass into a jug, add hot tap water and allow the mixture to stand for a day or two to cool and dissolve. Then stir well, and pour over the soil around the houseplant. I have been doing this for years and know that it definitely works! I was reading about erythrism, a genetic mutation that increases red pigments (carotenoids and related compounds) whilst reducing green pigment (biliverdin). A classic example of this is pink grasshoppers! The mutation is recessive, meaning both parents must carry the gene for it to appear in offspring. That’s why pink individuals are rare, often estimated at around a 1% chance of being seen in a person’s lifetime. I've never been lucky enough to see one, have you? Yes, I remember seeing a pink grasshopper in France years ago during a family holiday picnic! I took a photo of this pink grasshopper and had this photo enlarged when I got home because it was so unusual. Two days ago I got two Black Beauty stick insects and have set up the vivarium with substrate (orchid bark) and fake plants. Now, the female can’t open her legs fully which is making her fall onto her back. She won’t eat but is trying to drink. Is she trying to shed her skin? Video attached. Unfortunately your female Black Beauty stick insect (Peruphasma schultei) is dying, because she has been poisoned. Your set up is not ventilated enough and it is a bad idea to include fake plants and substrate because the artificial chemicals released from these (either airborne or through being consumed) can kill your stick insects. Her behaviour indicates her nervous system has been damaged which is why she has lost co ordination of her legs. She has wings and so is fully grown so would not shed her skin again (stick insects shed their skins as they grow, but when fully grown never shed their skins again). She cannot recover from this and so the kindest thing to do is to place her on a wet privet leaf because dying stick insects like to drink, and she will pass soon. To give your remaining male stick insect a chance, you should replace the substrate with paper and remove all the fakery. Then you need to find a well established privet hedge and cut some fresh pieces. Never use potted privet plants because these are likely to contain pesticides that will kill your stick insects. And moving forward, a larger, more ventilated enclosure would be much better housing, so please consider the ELC stick insect cage because this enclosure is the best housing for most stick insects, including Black Beauty stick insects. I want to order pet stick insects on-line at Small-Life Supplies, but am unsure which type to choose? Can you help me please? Free friendly stick insect advice is available from Small-Life Supplies, so please contact us directly during weekday office hours between 9am and 6pm. Chatting over the phone is best, the number is 01733 913480. Or you can email cindi@small-life.co.uk. Or go to the Small-Life Supplies Facebook page and get in touch using Facebook messenger. The stick insects that Small-Life Supplies breed and supply are chosen because they are safe breeds to keep and respond well to handling. Which type(s) you choose depends on your personal preference as to whether you prefer a really thin one, such as the Thailand stick insect (Baculum thaii). Or maybe you prefer the look of a chunky prehistoric one, such as the New Guinea stick insect (Eurycantha calcarata)? Undoubtedly the easiest type to start with is the Indian stick insect (Carausius morosus), and these also have the advantage that you can add Pink Winged stick insects (Sipyloidea sipylus) and/or Thailand stick insect (Baculum thaii) to the same ELC cage at a later date, as your interest develops. They all eat bramble (blackberry) leaves, which can be gathered from blackberry bushes growing wild outdoors all year round in the UK. What is best to help the enclosure look like a natural habitat? Fit our "Dappled Glade Background" sheet onto the back of the ELC cage to create a natural looking environment and use the green ELC Liner on the floor of the enclosure. This creates a naturalistic look whilst also maintaining clean and hygienic surroundings. Avoid using soil and earth on the cage floor because this soon becomes damp and encourages mould and small flies, as well as making it very difficult to control the number of eggs you keep. Inserting plastic plants and decor can be risky too because new products can release a smell and stick insects are very sensitive to artificial smells. You can insert twigs, but make sure you thoroughly check them first and remove any spiders that may be hiding. Ensure there is not too much clutter in the cage because the stick insects prefer to shed their skins on the mesh walls and need plenty of clear space underneath so they can complete each skin change (ecdysis) successfully. Always ensure there are fresh long stems of foodplant (usually bramble sprigs) in the Sprig Pot of water, but there is no need for the leaves to be touching the top or the sides of the cage. My daughter was given a pot of Sunny stick insect eggs and she's been anxiously checking on them for months. Today we have three that have hatched! I've gone on Marketplace and bagged myself an ELC cage, which I have just collected. I attach a photo, have I set it up correctly? And what do I do about giving them water? Like most other species, the baby "Sunny" stick insects (Sungaya aeta) do like to drink water from the water droplets on the leaves, So it's important to lightly mist the leaves (don't get the stick insects wet!) so these stick insects can have a drink. When they are little, the Sunny stick insects prefer less ventilated conditions, and so need a much smaller enclosure. The HAP pot is ideal, and when you insert a wet bramble leaf, it stays wet for a while because the HAP is not ventilated. Small-Life Supplies breed various species of stick insects, and many of them do best in unventilated surroundings for the first few weeks of their lives, and then need the larger ventilated surroundings of the ELC cage as they grow. That is why the HAPs have been specially made by Small-Life Supplies and are the perfect nursery enclosure for various species of young nymphs, including the Sunny type and also, of course then popular Indian stick insect (Carausius morosus). It's great that you have got an ELC stick insect cage because this can house your Sunny stick insects in the autumn, when they are larger and need more ventilated surroundings. If you'd like to purchase disposable ELC Liners or the new naturalistic background for the ELC cage, please contact cindi@small-life.co.uk Has the size of the ELC stick insect enclosure changed over the years? There has been no shrinkflation on ELC stick insect cages. So the ELC stick insect cage is exactly the same size now as it was when this enclosure was launched in 2012, thirteen years ago! That means you can purchase the disposable ELC Liners (in blue, green, and pink), safe in the knowledge they will still fit the floor of the cage, regardless of when you purchased it. And you can now purchase our unique naturalistic background (called the "Dappled Glade Background"), confident it will fit behind the clear back panel of the ELC cage! The engraved label on the lift-off lid of the ELC cage indicates the year that particular cage was manufactured. All ELC cages are still manufactured by Small-Life Supplies in the UK. Saw the new Australian stick insect identified by Professor Angus Emmott in the news today. Looks like an Acrophylla wuelfingi to me, so I'm not sure what the excitement is about? This new Australian stick insect is attracting so much publicity because of her total length (40cm) and weight (44g). She is an adult female and has been assigned a new species of Acrophylla alta. However, as you state, her physical characteristics are very similar to those of the established Acrophylla wuelfingi stick insect (also called the Acrophylla titan stick insect), and indeed that species is also found in the tree canopies in Queensland, Australia. The researchers have examined the eggs from this newly found stick insect, so presumably they are physically significantly different from those eggs produced by Acrophylla wuelfingi , which is why they have designated it as a new species. And of course, the Acrophylla wuelfingi adult females are generally not quite as long, the usual total length is 33cm, so longer than a ruler! I used to breed Acrophylla wuelfingi and, as with other large species of stick insect, there is a lot of variation amongst the final total length that the adults achieve, both in captivity and in the wild In the "Bulletin of Entomological Research" issue 74, pages 633-640, there is an interesting aphid research paper regarding the population change in Myzus persicae overwintering on spring cabbage in the UK in relation to meteorological and biological factors. The Clip Cages used for this research seem to be the same design as the ones that Small-Life Supplies sell? I hope they are because I would like to replicate this field experiment. Yes, the Clip Cages that Small-Life Supplies manufacture and sell are the classic design that has been used by scientists for decades, and are the same dimensions. This is so scientists can replicate existing published work, or conduct new research work using the same apparatus, so making the experiments scientifically robust (because the variables are minimised). Is it true that if you breed a parthenogenetic chain for too many generations, they become weak and unhealthy? I have new Carausius morosus eggs and wondered if there was a limit to the number of generations you can have before their health was compromised? One advantage with parthenogenetic reproduction is that a heathy strain can continue forever. All the Indian stick insects (Carausius morosus) that Small-Life Supplies sell are descended from just one Indian stick insect that laid eggs in 1976! For years, some scientists had the view that parthenogenesis could only continue for a few generations, but that opinion has now been proven to be false, and indeed our Indian stick insects are still going strong, fifty generations later! Sometimes an unhealthy parthenogenetic stick insect lays eggs and if these eggs are saved the resultant offspring will be genetically weak. In these circumstances, the descendants from that stick insect die out after a generation or two. When keeping stick insects as pets, it's best to only save eggs from healthy looking adults. Please see the Small-Life Supplies YouTube video to see what healthy adult Indian stick insects should look like. Healthy stick insects look like this, video # 011 I've looked for stick insects for sale near me but would prefer to purchase from an expert breeder who knows their stuff. Can I collect stick insects and enclosures from Small-Life Supplies or must they be delivered? It's better to purchase direct from a long established breeder who knows about the creatures and proper care, rather than from a general pet or reptile shop who may not have this specific knowledge about stick insects. Small-Life Supplies has been breeding stick insects and manufacturing and supplying proper insect cages for forty years and are now considered world class in this area. The business delivers items nationwide to mainland UK and live arrival is guaranteed. Collection is not possible, but everything is really well packaged, and customers are updated with the delivery of their order including what time it will arrive (within a two hour time window). I have unfortunately lost 6 of the 8 Indian stick insect nymphs in my batch with the genetic growth disorders. My strongest remaining stick is 8 weeks old and completed her third moult at the weekend, now measuring around 3.5cm, slightly bigger than any of the others ever reached. From her appearance, is there a chance she could avoid arrest and complete her growth, or is she more likely to have the same fate as her sisters? Her appetite and behaviour is normal. Her same age sister is in the picture for comparison. It's looking promising for her, because a total length of 3.5cm at age of 8 weeks is perfect for a healthy Indian stick insect (Carausius morosus). I can see from the photo that both of your Indian stick insects have broken antennae, which is unusual and indicates the genetic stock is of poor quality, which you already know. The prognosis for her smaller sister is not good, but the larger stick insect should be able to grow normally (damaged antennae do not slow down the growth rate). I've just received my ELC cage and am currently debating on what stick insect to go for. I was seriously considering getting Eurycantha calcarata but have discovered that they can pinch with the sharp spine on their back "thighs". Is this true? I am also considering getting Sungaya inexpectata, but as a complete beginner, is there anything I need to know before getting this particular species? Like many insects, New Guinea stick insects (Eurycantha calcarata) have the ability to defend themselves if they are being attacked or seriously provoked. Sadly, there are unkind people who think it is funny to repeatedly hit a New Guinea stick insect in order to provoke such a defensive reaction which they can film and post online. And unfortunately many people are also blissfully unaware that New Guinea stick insects need to drink a lot of water, so it's essential to put a dish of water into the cage. Failure to do so results in New Guinea stick insects becoming very stressed and agitated. Of course when you purchase your New Guinea stick insects from Small-Life Supplies, you can be confident that the stick insects you receive will be healthy and have calm temperaments. Care advice is included and more detailed information on the New Guinea stick insects (and other popular varieties) is in the book,"Keeping Stick Insects" by Dorothy Floyd. Sungaya inexpectata (a parthenogenetic species) and the more commonly available Sungaya aeta species, (which has an equal ratio of males and females) are pretty stick insects, but aren't the most responsive and spend a lot of time on the floor of the cage. In contrast, the Indian stick insect (Carausius morosus) respond well to handling and are by far the best choice for a complete beginner. Can stick insects let off bad smells? Only a few species of stick insect can emit a bad smell, this is a defensive action and is only done when the stick insect feels threatened. The airborne molecules soon disperse and so the smell goes away after a few minutes. Popular species such as the Indian stick insect (Carausius morosus) and Thailand stick insect (Baculum thaii) cannot do this and so are completely odourless. However, the Thailand Straight stick insect, aka Bud Winged stick insect (Phaenopharos herwaardeni), can emit a strong smell when frightened, as can the Australian Macleays Spectre stick insect (Extatosoma tiaratum). It is important to distinguish these general smells that are harmless, from the handful of dangerous species of stick insect which produce a harmful chemical spray and actively direct this at the eyes of people and pets, capable of causing temporary blindness. Small-Life Supplies is an ethical business and does not breed or supply such dangerous species of stick insect. We'd like some stick insects for the summer holidays, to watch them grow. We've decided on Pink Winged stick insects and Thailand stick insects, they'll both be OK in the ELC cage, right? Our allotment has loads of bramble, so no issue with food supply! My son wanted to know if the Green Bean stick insects would also eat bramble? That's a great summer project, and yes, two Pink Winged stick insects (Sipyloidea sipylus) and four Thailand stick insects (Baculum thaii) live together happily in the ELC cage. Both those species eat bramble (blackberry) leaves and this grows well in allotments. Our Grenadan Green Bean stick insects (Diapherodes gigantea) ignore bramble in favour of eucalyptus leaves, and so no, I would not recommend bramble for that species, it is better to feed Grenadan Green Bean stick insects with eucalyptus leaves. Ooh, you've got the Macleays Spectre stick insects listed! I think these are so cute, but have heard horror stories about the virus that is killing them off. How can you tell if the stick insect is healthy or not? Yes, there is a virus that can affect the Australian Macleays Spectre stick insects (Extatosoma tiaratum). Fortunately it is not present in the breeding stocks of stick insects at Small-Life Supplies. It's really easy to spot if a stick insect is affected just by a visual inspection. Healthy Australian Macleays Spectre stick insects routinely curl their tails up (this is a defensive behaviour to pretend they are dangerous scorpions). But ill Australian Macleays Spectre stick insects, that are suffering from the virus, are unable to do this and drag their bodies flat behind them. There is no cure for these afflicted stick insects and they die within weeks. It is very depressing to see some stalls selling these ill stick insects at invertebrate fairs. I have been desperate to keep Pink Winged stick insects ever since seeing them at a nature place two years ago! They are so beautiful with their fairy like wings. I am so glad that you have them in stock. But here's the thing, I am away on holiday until 8th August, is there any way I can buy them now and have them delivered when I get back? Yes, of course, just mention this when you order and it can be arranged. Small-Life Supplies breed Pink Winged stick insects (Sipyloidea sipylus) in large numbers and are happy to accommodate customer's delivery requirements. Help please! Our two grandchildren are visiting us for three weeks next month, so we are planning activities that are affordable. I am keen to encourage their interest in nature and so will be getting some stick insects from yourselves, I know Cheyenne will love the New Guinea stick insects, but I think Aria would prefer the Thailand stick insects. So that means two ELC cages, any chance of a discount? It is great to hear that you are encouraging your granddaughters to be interested in stick insects. And although some species can be mixed together in the same ELC cage, it is not recommended to mix a chunky bulky type like the New Guinea stick insect (Eurycantha calcarata) with a thin bodied sort such as the Thailand stick insect (Baculum thaii), in case of accidental damage. (A chunky stick insect can accidentally harm a thin stick insect by treading on it). From time to time, Small-Life Supplies sell lightly used ELC stick insect cages at a discount rate, so I recommend you visit the "clearance" page on this website, or phone Small-Life Supplies on 01733 913480 before 6pm. Are stick insects for sale all year? Or is it seasonal? Small-Life Supplies sell stick insects all year. Live arrival is guaranteed and so sometimes there may be a slight delay due to very hot weather or extremely cold weather. The conditions must be favourable for the stick insects to travel safely and so the weather can't be too hot or too cold. Customers are updated by email with the delivery details . I've been told that some moths can fly from Africa to the UK, but is there proof of this? Yes, this was proved decades ago. In February 1960, the French government undertook nuclear testing in the Sahara. The following month the eminent entomologist Dr Kettlewell tested the moths caught in his moth trap in Oxfordshire, UK with a radiation detector. He found a specimen of the Rush Veneer moth (Nomophila noctuella) contained a radio-active particle that came from the explosion. This confirmed the moth had flown the 1500 miles from Africa to the UK. I've recently retired and would like to learn more about insect physiology. There seems to be a plethora of dumbed-down information on this subject on-line, and so I am hoping you can recommend a good book on the subject, written by an expert in this field? I recommend the book "Insect Physiology" by V.B.Wigglesworth, this is a concise 166 page paperback and written in a clear style. The author was based at Cambridge University, UK for years and was a leading authority on the subject. How long do Indian stick insect eggs take to hatch in summer? I got some eggs from a new source that were laid in early June and it has been warm since then. Also, I have a couple of eggs from the old group that were laid in March. They haven’t sped up because of the heat, so are they probably duds? In hot summers, the incubation time for Indian stick insect eggs (Carausius morosus) can reduce from four months to three months. It has been extremely hot in the UK recently and at Small-Life Supplies the Indian stick insect eggs laid on 22nd April 2025 are hatching now (so after slightly less than three months). If you have noticed your eggs hatch sooner in hotter weather, then I agree your March eggs are probably duds. I was gifted a round net enclosure with ten stick insect eggs. So far four have hatched, but they have all died. What am I doing wrong, I was told Indian stick insects are super easy to look after? I attach a photo. Baby Indian stick insects (Carausius morosus) prefer non-ventilated surroundings and so we recommend housing them in a container without airholes, such as the HAP. Also, baby stick insects are thirsty and so it's important to give them a wet bramble (blackberry) leaf, so they can drink from the water droplets on the leaf. We start off rearing all our Indian stick insects this way and have an almost 100% success rate. As the stick insects grow, they require more ventilation, and so it's best to transfer them to the ventilated ELC stick insect cage when they are 4 - 6 weeks old. The method you are using is not one we would endorse, so I urge you to change it asap so that when your remaining eggs hatch, those baby stick insects have a decent chance of survival. Indian stick insects do best if they eat bramble/blackberry leaves (in general, ivy is usually regarded as a foodplant of last resort). Can you get aquatic stick insects? There is a "Water stick insect" which occurs in the UK and lives in ponds and lakes. However, this insect is classified as belonging to the order Hemiptera and has the Latin species name Ranatra linearis. Terrestrial stick insects belong to the order Phasmida and so in taxonomic terms, the aquatic water stick insect is no relation to the terrestrial stick insects. We have some Vapourer Moth eggs, laid in April and May of this year, but none have hatched? We are seeing lots of butterflies in the garden, also hoverflies and ladybirds, and so it seems strange that we have no Vapourer caterpillars yet? Eggs of the the British Vapourer Moth (Orgyia antiqua) have the ability to hatch when they register conditions to be favourable. In the UK at the moment, conditions are not favourable for these caterpillars because it is too hot and dry. So it is good that the hatching of the eggs is being delayed. As the summer progresses and hopefully cools down a bit, the eggs should start to hatch. Meanwhile, the very hot and dry weather has lead to bumper populations of the insects you mention and also Elephant hawk moths. How can I keep my Indian stick insects cool in this heatwave? I have four Indian stick insects in one ELC cage. Indian stick insects (Carausius morosus) do not like very hot surroundings and struggle when the indoor temperature is above 25 degrees Celsius. The best way to cool down the ELC cage containing Indian stick insects is to place a frozen blue freezer block on the roof of the ELC cage because this lowers the temperature by a couple of degrees. Combine this with taking other actions to reduce the room temperature (Open the windows before 7am to let cooler air in. Then shut the door to that room and close all windows and blinds/curtains to minimise solar gain). Indian stick insects do best at a daytime temperature of 18 - 21 degrees Celsius, they can tolerate slightly higher temperatures for a short time, but really struggle when it is above 25 degrees Celsius. Some dude said his stick insects died because the parthenogenetic chain went on too long - is this true? No, it is a myth that a parthenogenetic species of stick insect have evolved to only reproduce for a certain number of generations and then die out. All the Indian stick insects (Carausius morosus) that Small-Life Supplies breed and sell are descendants from one Indian stick insect who lived back in 1976! So there have been dozens of generations from that stick insect, and these Indian stick insects are in excellent health. Can different stick insects live together? Some species of stick insect can be mixed together, but others not. It depends on their ventilation requirements, so you can mix types that like airy surroundings together, but it would be unwise to house a species that prefers less-ventilated surroundings with one that likes airy conditions. Also it is not recommended to house a big chunky heavy stick insect with a thin delicate stick insect, in case the latter is accidentally trodden on! You can safely house Indian, Pink Winged and Thailand stick insects altogether in the ELC cage. Are we allowed to keep stick insects in school? Yes, many nursery, primary and secondary schools in the UK keep stick insects successfully in the classroom or lab. Having living stick insects at school is a great way to spark an interest in biology and the natural world. The stick insects are very low maintenance requiring a weekly change of the Liner in the ELC stick insect cage and the bramble sprigs replenished with fresh leaves. Only keep the safe species, Small-Life Supplies are reputable and so only supply the harmless species of stick insect, so the students (and teachers) are not at risk. CLEAPSS can advise on how to answer the admin risk assessment forms, if required. Ensure the room housing the ELC cage of stick insects is above 14 degrees Celsius at night during the winter months, and approximately 21 degrees Celsius during the day, because these are the temperatures that our stick insects are used to and which suit them best. Does Small- Life Supplies sell stick insects to regular people? Or just to universities and big organisations? Regular people are very welcome as customers, so please reach out to us if you'd like some stick insects for your home. Stick insects make great pets for people of all ages too. We're happy to advise which species would be right for you so please phone 01733 913480 for a friendly chat to discuss the options. I listened to the live on-line talk by Dr McAlister on flies, but didn't understand the part where she said flies don't bite? Every year we get eaten alive by midges here! Am I missing something? She was emphasising that flies have sucking mouthparts, so when a fly such a female mosquito attacks a person, she can jab and pierce a person's skin, but this is not technically defined as a bite. However, I think most people who react with the characteristic raised skin rash following this experience would say they have been bitten by a mosquito! Also there are the Biting Midges (150 British species), family Ceratopogonidae, which do have proper biting mouthparts and can suck the blood out of mammals and birds. My oldest Indian stick insect is just over 3 months old and is 3cm from head to tail. Last week she had constipation for a few days needing gentle help (one even got to half her size before passing). She last moulted 26 days ago and seems to have put on a tiny bit of weight, but she seems smaller and thinner than my previous 4th instars. From the photo, does she look anywhere near shedding? She has a big appetite and can still stand tall, but hasn’t changed in appearance. Could this be a hopeful sign of an upcoming moult or is she gradually reaching the end? Thank you for the photo of this Indian stick insect (Carausius morosus). Sometimes a stick insect does not grow at the normal rate because of hormonal issues and this appears to be what is happening here. Growth is arrested because the hormone triggering ecdysis is not being released. Such stick insects usually die before reaching maturity, but are not suffering, so I suggest you continue to look after her and perhaps offer her some additional types of leaves, such as Red Robin (Photinia) , hazel or wild rose, because these may help with her digestive problems. It appears that your culture of Indian stick insects has various genetic issues and so, moving forward, I recommend you get a new batch of eggs. Small-Life Supplies do sell Indian stick insect eggs (in packs of eight) and these are from our very healthy indivuals, so please email cindi@small-life.co.uk for more details. Are stick insects becoming more popular? Yes, stick insects are now very popular pets in the UK. The actual stick insects and correct enclosures can be purchased from Small-Life Supplies. Stick insects are easy to look after, just feed them once a week with fresh bramble leaves, standing the cut stems in a Sprig Pot of water so that the leaves stay fresh. And you can mix certain types of stick insect together in the same ELC cage to make an interesting display. I’m stoked that you have directions for raising Diapherodes. But there are more that 100 species of eucalyptus. Can you narrow it down? I am living in California,USA, where a few species of eucalyptus have naturalized. We use Eucalyptus gunnii leaves to feed the Green Bean Grenadan stick insect (Diapherodes gigantea). Here in the UK, that species of eucalyptus is very easy to grow outside. Initially the leaves are round but as the tree matures, it produces elongated leaves. The newly hatched Grenadan stick insects prefer to eat the soft tender new growth eucalyptus leaves, and can do so without any adverse effects. This is in complete contrast to young bramble leaves (eaten by other species of stick insect) that, if eaten, can cause health issues for the stick insect and so are best avoided. I want another ELC cage for my Macleays Spectre stick insects, this will be my third! Do you have any cut-price ELC cages in stock now, or maybe in the near future? I've seen one on Marketplace for £50, but sadly it's nowhere near me. The ELC cage is great for housing the Australian Macleays Spectre stick insects (Extatosoma tiaratum). And yes, there is one just listed on the "clearance page" of www.small-life.co.uk, it has been lightly used and is for sale at a bargain price. Our used ELC cages usually sell very quickly, so I'd recommend you phone Small-Life Supplies on 01733 913480 to check availability. Is Small-Life Supplies going to be exhibiting at the Cambridge museum insect event on Saturday 21st June 2025? This is a general information event about insects, held at the Zoology Museum, Downing Street, Cambridge. CB2 3EJ. And in the lecture hall there will be talks by museum staff who work with insects. It's free to visit and the RSPB and Wildlife Trust have stands, but there won't be firms like Small-Life Supplies present. One of my 6 stick insects passed suddenly the other day which I presumed was a bad molt, it dropped to the floor while I was misting, after resting on the mesh for days, and couldn’t get up, was unresponsive to touch and legs were limp. Today I've noticed a second stick insect is similar, hanging off the mesh sideways, its legs are limp and seems weak, and very mildly responsive. I put some water on a leaf and rested it on its leg to help if its dehydration. Nothing has changed in their care and they hatched end of February. They are misted every few days and every other day when it’s warmer. My other 4 seem okay and are behaving as normal. Help please! Thanks for the photo, I can see they are adult Indian stick insects (Carausius morosus) in a netting enclosure, eating ivy leaves. Indian stick insects go limp and die when it is too hot, so it is really important that you move them to a room that is approximately 18 - 21 degrees Celsius during the day, and cooler at night. In the UK, we are having very hot weather just now, it is 28 degrees Celsius outside. When the temperature indoors exceeds 25 degrees Celsius, Indian stick insects are at risk. You can cool the ELC cage down by placing an ice pack on the solid roof, but this is much harder to do with a round netting enclosure. Moving forward, it would advisable to also put some bramble in the cage for your Indian stick insects to eat because they often prefer bramble to ivy. It doesn't matter if you've fed them ivy from birth, they can switch to eating bramble at any time. We are getting four Australian Macleays Spectre stick insects and the ELC bundle delivered to us next week, but I need to know more about how to feed them. Specifically: how much bramble do we give them, how long should the stems be, do they bend over and need supporting, and do the leaves need to touch the sides of the ELC cage so the stick insects can easily climb onto the leaves? Australian Macleays Spectre stick insects (Extatosoma tiaratum) thrive in the ELC cage and can eat both bramble (blackberry) leaves and eucalyptus leaves. Cut two 40cm long bramble sprigs (stems with nice green leaves attached) and push both cut ends through the central hole in the red lid of the Sprig Pot (fill this with cold tap water first, as per the instructions supplied). The bramble sprigs are strong and so will stay upright in the ELC cage. The leaves do not need to touch the sides of the cage becuase the stick insects can easily climb up from the Liner onto the Sprig Pot and go upwards on the bramble sprigs to select which leaf they wish to eat. Replace the bramble after one week, because it is important that there is always a plentiful choice of nice juicy green leaves for the stick insects to eat. Currently there are loads of aphids underneath the bramble leaves, so I shake off as many as I can but I am now seeing some on the see-through walls of the ELC cage and they seem to produce a sticky substance? Will this harm my stick insects at all? And what's the best way to clean up this sticky mess? You're seeing the honeydew which is the sticky fluid excreted by aphids after they have sucked the sap from the veins in the bramble leaves. It's easy to remove this sticky mess using the soft Cleaning Sponge soaked in a lukewarm solution of dilute bleach. Rinse well with cold water and dry the ELC cage walls with a soft cotton tea towel. It's really important to only use tepid water and cold water on the ELC cage, never use hot water because this will distort the plastic panels and permanently damage the cage. The aphids and their honeydew will not harm your stick insects, but for aesthetic reasons, you should minimise the number of aphids in the cage. So you are doing the right thing in shaking off as many aphids as you can before putting the bramble into the ELC cage. This issue only occurs when the aphids are breeding and so fortunately is not a continuous problem throughout the year. It seems that so many people are struggling to keep their first instar Green Bean stick insects alive, and I wondered if you guys, being scientists, had investigated this? Yes, Small-Life Supplies has been trialling newly hatched Green Bean Grenadan stick insects (Diapherodes gigantea) in different rearing enclosures from birth, and have recently made a major breakthrough, currently achieving a 100% success rate! The solution is to keep them in the URV-round enclosure, feed them with eucalyptus leaves and keep the URV-round in a room at the standard daytime temperature of 18 degrees Celsius, dropping to 14 degrees Celsius at night. This method also works for the Australian Macleays Spectre stick insects (Extatosoma tiaratum). Also, the newly hatched stick insects from both these species can be housed together in the URV-round enclosure, with the same fantastic results. I recently got four new stick insects Eurycantha calcarata. I do know that my room can drop below 18, so should I be getting them a heat source? If so which? Eurycantha calcarata is the Latin species name for the New Guinea stick insect. These are large chunky stick insects are easy to keep, they eat bramble (blackberry) leaves and do well in the ELC cage. New Guinea stick insects need a few extra bits in the ELC cage: a shallow water dish, a pot of sterilised sand (for the adult females to bury their eggs), and a long cardboard tube (because these stick insects like to pile on top of each other in a confined space). Small-Life Supplies have been breeding New Guinea stick insects for decades and ours are used to a night time temperature of 14 degrees Celsius and a daytime temperature of between 18 and 21 degrees Celsius. So you need to measure the temperature of your room at night, when it is coldest. If it is below 14 degrees Celsius, I'd recommend you purchase a 500 Watt oil-filled radiator. Then, during the winter months, you could plug this portable radiator into a wall socket near your cage of stick insects and the gentle warmth it emits will stop your stick insects from getting too cold. I was just cleaning out the nymphs and noticed my 2nd (nearly 3rd) instar has a different colour head to her body. I have never seen this colouration before, is it normal or a sign of an issue? Thank you for emailing a photo of this Indian stick insect (Carausius morosus). This "two-tone" colouration is very rare, I have only ever seen it a few times and so you are very lucky! There is no need to be concerned about her colour. I once kept the eggs from a "two -tone" Indian stick insect to see if the offspring also had this colouration, but they did not. So this condition appears not to be hereditary. Our Black Beauty stick insects eat loads of privet and now the council are causing us a big headache because today they have drastically cut the privet hedge by the park! I'll be emailing them on Monday to remind them about not cutting hedges during bird nesting season, we do have laws to protect nature in the UK and the council should obey the law. Anyway, what can I do before I can find another privet hedge? You can purchase Fresh Cut Privet from Small-Life Supplies. It's sent in a resealable zip wallet and should last 7-10 days, depending on how many Peruvian Black Beauty stick insects (Peruphasma schultei) you have. And yes, please do remind your council that they are not supposed to cut hedges during bird nesting season. In the UK, some councils are better than others, but there is no excuse for them ignoring the rules if they know about them, so the more citizens who remind them of their obligations, the better. Last week two of my stick insects (one New Guinea and one Pink Winged) both moulted and both had issues! They are out of their skins but sadly each has lost a couple of back legs. I've never had this issue before, they have always been fine and I'm not doing anything different. The only thing I can think that may have caused this is the quality of the bramble leaves? It hasn't rained for weeks and I've noticed that the bramble leaves are thinner and floppier than usual and seem to wilt quickly, even though they are stood in water in the cage. Yes, the poor quality of the bramble leaves is the major contributory factor here. During prolonged dry spells lasting several weeks, the bramble leaves suffer and are not as nutritious as they should be. That is why it is always a good idea to have some of your own bramble growing in your driveway or garden. Bramble can thrive in poor soil, so can even flourish in a gravel drive next to a fence or wall. With your own bramble, you can use a watering can in the evening to water your bramble during prolonged dry spells. This means you will always have nice quality leaves to harvest. Another option is to gather wild rose leaves because these can be more tolerant of drought than bramble leaves. Moving forward, although not ideal, your afflicted stick insects will manage without their back legs, and if they are still young, will be able to start regenerating them after their next skin-change (ecdysis). I've been helping my mate shift an old carpet, and as we lifted it up, some moths flew out, big ones and small ones. I captured a few, will they be OK for Dave, my mantis to eat? That carpet's been there for years, so no issue with chemicals. I just thought I'd check because Dave normally eats greenbottles. Yes, the carpet moths you've caught will be fine for Dave the mantid to eat. The larger moths are the females, and the smaller ones the males. It is good to give a mantid (praying mantis) a variety of live food instead of just one type. So greenbottles, bluebottles and houseflies are great food for mantids, also micro-moths. What's the longest stick insect that you've ever managed to breed? Years ago, I used to breed the Australian Titan stick insect (Acrophylla wuelfingi). The adult females had a total length of 33cm, so longer than a ruler! The males were not as long, but had large wings and were very good at flying. I’ve noticed that all my stick insects rest with their front legs outstretched, yet they’re not fully in stick mode. Does that mean they’re asleep? I’ve never understood why they rest in half-stick mode. Yes, your Indian stick insects (Carausius morosus) are asleep when they have two front legs outstretched like this. They rest like this so they are protecting their head and antennae between their front two legs. If an Indian stick insect is suddenly alarmed, she can clamp all her legs alongside her body and drop to the ground as a straight stick. She can remain motionless in a completely straight stick for hours, if need be. I'm searching where to buy stick insects UK and need to know where to go. And should I get eggs or can stick insects survive the post? Small-Life Supplies guarantee live arrival of the stick insects nationwide to mainland UK. They are correctly packaged and dispatched using a reputable express 24 hour delivery service. The best types of stick insect to keep are Indian stick insects, Pink Winged stick insects, Thailand stick insects and New Guinea stick insects. They all eat bramble (blackberry) leaves and thrive in the ELC stick insect cage. It is much more exciting to receive the actual living stick insects instead of waiting for weeks or months for the eggs to hatch. We've been looking after our stick insects (nymphs) for a few weeks and one of them has started to look fatter than the others and is not moving about as much. I have been told she could be behaving this way because she is about to moult. I was told they usually climb out of their skins at night, in the dark. So, would it help her if I moved her to dark room until she has moulted? Many stick insect nymphs shed their skins (this process is called ecdysis) six times over a period of five months. This is the method by which all insects, including stick insects, grow. Days before each skin change, the stick insect nymph has a thicker thorax, the body looks dull, and the stick insect is less active because it is conserving its energy for the skin-change. The actual skin-change event (ecdysis) takes between ten to thirty minutes, the duration increases the larger the stick insect is. It's best not to stress the stick insect around this vulnerable time, so try not to disturb her. Stick insects need to be in light surroundings in the day and dark surroundings at night, so leave your cage of stick insects where it normally is so they can all still experience the natural day light and dark night cycle. So no, don't move her to a dark room. I’ve noticed that both my older Indian stick insects nymphs have moulted in the daytime (twice for the 10 week old and once for the 4 week old), and one of the new babies hatched in daylight, which is unusual. They’re behaving normally and are eating, but do they look healthy? (except for that antenna that broke in moulting). Their consistent daytime schedules are confusing me! Thanks for emailing the photos of your young Indian stick insects (Carausius morosus). They look OK, but it is strange that they are changing their skins during the day, and one hatched in daylight. Tonight, if you look at the room where your stick insect cage is, are there any lights that stay on during the night, illuminating the room? For example, a bright street light, or is there any light emitted from electrical devices plugged in and left on standby (for example a GTech hoover, wifi router, cooker etc). If so, these lights would be disturbing the light and dark cycle of your stick insects and so I'd recommend you move the stick insect cage to a room that stays completely dark throughout the night. Which is the best-selling book about stick insects? I'd like to buy a good one for my nephew (13) who adores bugs and is keen to care for his Indian stick insects properly. The book "Keeping Stick Insects" has sold ten thousand hard copies and continues to be the go to resource for stick insect advice. Written in a clear style, this book is a mine of information, combining personal experience with scientific knowledge. Available in the UK from https://www.numonday.com/shop/small-life-supplies"Keeping Stick Insects" has a whole section on Indian stick insects and gives lots of tips on how to successfully keep some other easy-to-keep species too. Signed copies are available, at no extra charge. Can Australian Macleays Spectre stick insects eat hawthorn? The best leaves for Australian Macleays Spectre stick insects (Extatosoma tiaratum) are bramble (blackberry) and eucalyptus. I advise against giving them other leaves. It is the same with the caterpillars of the British Emperor silk moth (Saturnia pavonia) - the best food for them are fresh bramble (blackberry) leaves, yet some sites still suggest hawthorn, despite overwhelming evidence that the success rates are much better when they eat bramble! Are boy stick insects always smaller than girl stick insects? (I'm sending this question in on behalf of my daughter, who's six!) Yes, adult male stick insects are smaller than adult female stick insects. The two genders look completely different too, so it is easy to tell them apart. For example, the male Australian Macleays Spectre stick insect (Extatosoma tiaratum) has large wings and can fly, whereas the female has two small brown wing coverings on her thorax, but no actual wings. In the insect world, it is common for adult male insects to be smaller than adult female insects of the same species. I was in the audience at an event where someone was talking about stick insects. Sadly he was a bit pretentious, using phrases like "sexual dimorphism" which I could see were making people glaze over, but what really irritated me was his repeated reference to "specie" when talking about a single species! I didn't want to embarrass him, by publicly correcting him, so I hope he reads your column! Yes, it is bad enough when presenters mis-pronounce words, one of the common ones is the Vapourer moth which for some unknown reason is often pronounced as "vap-ora" instead of "vape-or-err". But it is bad if this speaker doesn't know that the word is always species, regardless of whether it is one species (singular) or two species (plural). And I am not a supporter of pseudo types, for example, people who use the word "ovum" instead of egg and "imago" instead of adult. Such scientific terms are fine for scientific papers, but are rather pretentious when used by people keeping stick insects as pets in their home. Stick insects and cats - what are the risks? Tabs, my tabby cat is very curious and so I need to know how she's likely to react when I get some stick insects. At Small-Life Supplies we have always had cats, both resident and visiting. Some show no interest in the stick insects, but others, (like Tabs probably will be), are interested and will watch the stick insects in the ELC cages. But instead of looking through the clear panels, cats prefer to watch (and smell) through the thick plastic white mesh sides. The ELC stick insect cage is robust and so even if a cat repeatedly taps the cage with a paw, no damage is done to the cage or the stick insects. (The outcome is very different with netting enclosures which can be easily snagged by the cats' claws). So, I'd recommend housing your stick insects in the ELC cage, so they'll be safe from Tabs! And when you apply the "spot-on" flea treatment to Tabs' neck, be sure to keep her in a different room to the stick insects for 24 hours, so that there is no risk of the airborne molecules from the pesticide flea treatment wafting over to the stick insects and killing them. I just saw a pet shop advertising massive, and I mean really huge, African land snails, I think they've had these shipped in from Africa. This can't be morally right, surely? No, I am against the importing of wild creatures to the pet trade in the UK. That is why Small-Life Supplies has never done this and instead breed and rear insects and snails in our breeding facility in the UK. This also has the advantage that the creatures are used to being handled and are used to living indoors in the UK. This means that when they are delivered to their new homes, they can settle in quickly and continue to live a healthy life. In contrast, wild caught creatures are frightened, bewildered and stressed, and this can lead to premature deaths. Some pet shops use the abbreviations "CB" (captive bred) and "WC" (wild caught) to let their customers know the origin of the stock. However, some unscrupulous pet shops do not do this and so customers are unaware they are buying a creature that is used to living in the wild and so it is unlikely to be able to readjust and become a happy pet. Every now and then I'll find an extra small egg, from my Indian stick insects. Two this week, are these duds do you think? They are so small it's hard to imagine a nymph would fit. Thank you for the photo, I can see the vast majority of your Indian stick insect (Carausius morosus) eggs are looking good, but you have two tiny ones. When keeping stick insects, it's important to breed from the healthy eggs and discard those eggs that are misshapen and/or undersized. This ensures that your population of Indian stick insects (Carausius morosus) stays healthy and strong. The dud eggs that you have photographed are unlikely to hatch and even if one did, the resultant baby (first instar nymph) would be so tiny and weak, she would be unlikely to survive. An adult Indian stick insect will lay eggs every day for the seven months of her adult life. The eggs laid at the very start and the very end of this period are not of the best quality and so it's best not to save those ones. I’m finding this time of year difficult in terms of finding suitable bramble for my Indian stick insect nymphs (2 weeks and 8 weeks old). The older, tougher bramble has now gone in my area, so when are the newer leaves officially safe to feed them? The oldest leaves I can access are large, soft and slightly paler than the previous growth The photographs you have sent of the new bramble (blackberry) leaves are good to give to your stick insects. Each bramble leaf can be made up of three parts, or five parts. The minimum size of each part needs to be 3cm to be safe for the stick insects to eat. This is demonstrated in the Small-Life Supplies YouTube video, called How To Feed Stick Insects in the Spring # 001 I have a stick insect enclosure question, is a 50cm tall cage better than a 30cm tall cage? For housing Indian stick insects. Stick insects should not be cramped and so need to live in a tall cage, at least 48cm high. The ELC stick insect cage is 51cm tall and is the best enclosure for Indian stick insects (Carausius morosus). Containers that are only 30cm tall are too small to house Indian stick insect adults. And it is bad when some sellers promote these small containers as "arboreal" housing, when they are clearly not. My two Pink Winged stick insects will be arriving next week, so exciting! Are there any other winged types of stick insects that are easy to keep and that I could add to their ELC stick insect home? There aren't many winged stick insects, most species are wingless. Some species such as the Thailand Straight (Phaenopharos herwaardeni) have tiny red wings that are designed to be flashed to startle a predator and are not designed for flying. The adult male Australian Macleays Spectre (Extatosoma tiaratum) has large functional wings, and does well in the ELC cage. But if you kept him, you would need an adult female Australian Macleays Spectre as well, and she has small vestigial wings which are too small for flying. Both the Pink Winged stick insects (Sipyloidea sipylus) and the Australian Macleays Spectre stick insects eat bramble (blackberry) leaves and also eucalyptus leaves. Because the Australian Macleays Spectre stick insects are so big and bulky, it's best to only house one pair of them in the same ELC cage as your two Pink Winged stick insects, to minimise the risk of a bulky stick insect accidentally treading on a slimmer stick insect. It's fun keeping flying stick insects, because you can take them out of the ELC cage once a week and let them have a fly around a room. I'm finding your website difficult to see on my phone, please help! It's easy to increase the font size on your mobile phone, by using these methods: 1) Activate "auto-rotate". If you have an iphone, swipe down from the top-right corner of your screen to open Control Center. Tap the Portrait Orientation Lock button to make sure that it's off. Turn your iPhone sideways. 2) If you have an android phone, swipe down from the top of the screen to open the quick settings panel, then tap the "Auto rotate" or "Portrait" icon. If the icon is highlighted in blue or white and says "Auto rotate", then it's already enabled. If it's grey and says "Portrait", tap it to enable auto-rotate. You can then turn your phone to the right to 3 o'clock, and view the website in landscape mode, which makes everything larger and easier to read. 3). You can also try the spreading motion with two fingers on your screen. Spreading should zoom in on your page and enlarge the text while pinching will zoom out and make text smaller. 4) Your phone may have a "magnifier app" which you can switch on. Is it common for stick insects to moult in the day? My third instar Indian stick insect has had both moults in the middle of the day so far. I thought they were supposed to moult at night or early morning. Usually stick insects shed their skins when it is dark, so during the night is the most popular time. However, stick insects can shed their skins during the day, if they feel particularly safe and secure. So your Indian stick insect (Carausius morosus) has chosen to shed her skin (this process is called ecdysis) during the day, and fortunately has been successful both times. At "Bug Club", the visiting guest said Pink Winged stick insects were discovered 166 years ago. How can she be so sure of this? Your guest speaker was referring to the year that the Pink Winged stick insect was assigned its Latin species name, Sipyloidea sipylus. At that time, in 1859, the esteemed British entomologist John Westwood, who was associated with Oxford University, was instrumental in classifying insects, including stick insects, to species level. So, in recognition of this, his surname and year this identification was made, is stated after the species. So, the complete full ID is Pink Winged stick insect (Sipyloidea sipylus) Westwood 1859. This species continues to be one of the most popular types of stick insect kept as pets today. I've got 5 small green stick insects and they all have food and leaves they eat but I've noticed a few have been bending their antennae to their mouth so idk if they are eating or cleaning? Your stick insects are cleaning their antennae. This is done regularly because the antennae are full of sensory hairs which must be kept clean so they can continue to work properly. The stick insect passes one antenna through its wet mouth at a time, using the front leg(s) to guide the antenna through the mouthparts at the correct speed. Have any of your Indian stick insect eggs been majorly delayed by the recent winter? I had one hatch in early March that was due late January, and I’m still waiting for eggs that were due in February/March. The eggs look normal and are kept around 20 Celsius (there is nowhere warmer for them). Will the new season help them hatch? Indian stick insect (Carausius morosus) eggs usually hatch after four months, but this can be longer during the winter months. At Small-Life Supplies, Indian stick insect eggs laid 23rd December 2024 are hatching now, so these are hatching after four months. But there are also some Indian stick insect eggs laid 21st November 2024 that are hatching now, so these have taken five months to hatch. There is no need to keep stick insect eggs at 20 degrees Celsius. Our stick insect eggs are all kept at 12 degrees Celsius during the night and approximately 18 degrees Celsius during the day. In the wild the temperature naturally fluctuates between day and night and so it is recommended to mimic these conditions in your home when keeping stick insect eggs, rather than trying to maintain a constant high temperature. Now that Spring is here, we expect the hatching time to continue at four months, but if we have a very hot summer, it may reduce to three months. I have heard that the young bright green leaves on brambles can be poisonous to stick insects, would you be able to confirm if this is true or not, I don't want to poison my insects! Yes, it is important to remove the tiny new pale green shoots of bramble. Bramble (blackberry) leaves that are 3cm or larger are safe for stick insects to eat. This is explained in the first Small-Life Supplies You Tube video: How To Feed Stick Insects in the Spring # 001 Is it better to buy eggs or actual stick insects? My daughter will be nine next week and would love some twiggy stick insects for her birthday. It's more exciting to receive the actual living stick insects, but obviously you need to purchase these from a reputable supplier. Small-Life Supplies has decades of experience sending out stick insects nationwide across the UK and live arrival is guaranteed. The best type of stick insects for your daughter to start with would be the Indian stick insects (Carausius morosus). These are easy to handle, eat bramble (blackberry) leaves and do best in the purpose-designed ELC stick insect cage. Young adults are being dispatched now and so your daughter could save some of the eggs and look forward to them hatching in four months time. Our local pet shop (in Cornwall) said we can go outside and find our own stick insects, but that can't be right surely? The pet shop will be referring to the New Zealand stick insect (Acanthoxyla prasina). That species of stick insect has been living wild in Cornwall, UK, for over one hundred years, having been brought over by mistake on cargo ships in the early 1900s. Some people in Cornwall find these New Zealand stick insects on their conifer hedges and rose bushes, or even on their houses when it is getting colder in the autumn months. However, few people keep that species as a pet, primarily because it does not seem to thrive in captivity. So, if you would like to keep stick insects as pets, I'd recommend the easy popular types, for example the Indian stick insect (Carausius morosus), Pink Winged stick insect (Sipyloidea sipylus), Thailand stick insect (Baculum thaii) and New Guinea stick insects (Eurycantha calcarata). Small-Life Supplies breed all these varieties and delivery is within 24 hours nationwide. Live arrival is guaranteed. Our Pink Winged ladies are furnishing us with eggs. We are thrilled but would like your advice on what to do next. Do we need a HAP? Congratulations! Pink Winged stick insects (Sipyloidea sipylus) are unusual in that they glue their eggs onto rough surfaces. It is very important to leave the eggs where they have been glued so that they can hatch successfully. This species has evolved like this for a reason. So never remove the eggs because a Pink Winged stick insect will be unable to free herself from an eggshell that is no longer stuck down. The baby Pink Winged stick insect is relatively large and pale green and can live in the ELC cage from birth. So no, you do not need a HAP. Don't give the eggs any attention and they will start to hatch after three months. I'm thinking of getting some stick insects. Do their needs differ by breed? What breed is better for a first time owner? Yes, some breeds of stick insect are easier to keep than other breeds. The easiest breed of stick insect to keep is the Indian stick insect (Carausius morosus). These stick insects eat bramble (blackberry) leaves, are safe to handle and do best in the ELC stick insect cage. How big should a stick insect cage be? The size recommended would be 51cm x 36cm x 27cm. The 51cm height is very important because stick insects need a tall cage so that they have space to grow properly. Stick insects housed in squat tanks are too cramped and are likely to have stunted growth, or even worse, deformed bodies that are bent (instead of the being straight). The ELC cage is 51cm tall and is the correct size for many popular stick insects including the Indian stick insects, Pink Winged stick insects, Thailand stick insects, New Guinea stick insects and many other species. How quickly do UK butterflies and moths lay their eggs? Is it seconds or minutes? The time that it takes a female adult butterfly or moth to lay an egg depends on what species she is and how conscientious she is. For example, the female British Small White butterfly Pieris rapae lays eggs singly on cruciferous plants, and so the butterfly flies from leaf to leaf, pausing for a few seconds to stick an egg on the leaf. In contrast, the female British Vapourer moth (Orgyia antiqua) usually embarks on a six hour marathon of gluing her entire batch of several hundred eggs, neatly in rows, side by side. However, a few individuals are more slap dash and finish the job in half the time, but by laying fewer eggs are not bothering to arrange them neatly. My Indian stick with the injured back legs is past her expected first moult date and is still eating and pooing a lot. How many days can she delay before it becomes a concern? She’s 28 days old and no signs of moulting, she was even resting happily on the bottom this morning. Other than the leg injuries from birth, can you see any reasons for this delay? She’s active and is turning green. I can see from your photos that this Indian stick insect (Carausius morosus) is looking plump and so she will be shedding her skin for the first time soon. Three weeks is the average time before the first skin change (ecdysis), but another week or so of delay is no cause for concern. It will be interesting to see how much improvement there will be on the state of her back legs after her first skin change, because they are quite badly misshapen.

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